Manual cam chain tensioner, advice

[m1ks]

Does anyone use one of these, (the sort sold by debben performance).
I'm aware of their superiority for race use etc but just curious if anyone uses one on a road bike.
How they're set, tighten completely then back off x degrees or ?
How often they need to be checked and re-tensioned
Also if you'd consider one worthwhile.

My tensioner is currently OK but the bolt head is snapped, (as received), so a replacement will be fitted at some point, was just pondering one of the manual ones.

Any experience appreciated, cheers,

Mike

[Al]

m1Ks there is a cross in the top right hand corner of the duplicate post if you want to delete it!

I converted the auto tensioner to have a manual back up bolt and nut cos i'm too tight to buy the real thing and dont like the look of the APE manual tensioners.

http://www.z1ownersclub.co.uk/forum/vie ... highlight=

AL

[m1ks]

I'll take a look at that, apologies for the duplicate, i didn't realise it had done so, will delete the other.

Can you provide more detail on the tensioning procedure, same as normal or any different?
Cheers

[m1ks]

hmmmm.

can't find a duplicate?

Sorry if theres one there but I don't see one to delete?

[phil churchett]

hmmmm.

can't find a duplicate?

Sorry if theres one there but I don't see one to delete?

No problem, the duplicate post i deleted earlier.

[Al]

m1ks
PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2009 7:36 am Post subject:
hmmmm.

can't find a duplicate?

Sorry if theres one there but I don't see one to delete?

I did one the other day.
After the post was eventually submitted i saw that there were two and simply went to the last one and deleted it with the cross in the top RH corner, wasnt pulling you're leg!!

With this mod; you cant over tighten the cam chain, unlike the APE ones.
The original spring is in charge of tension and the back stop bolt, nut and 'O' ring simply stops it slacking off when the engine is running.
The bolt cant generate enough torque to push the cross slide past (through) the plunger slide and advance it.
Similarly the cross slide has no torque reaction from the plunger slide because it is 99% absorbed by frictional losses.
For me its a win win situation and free too.

In truth; i find that the spring is no longer able to tension the plunger and therefore the cam chain to the correct degree.
With the engine warm but not either hot or stone cold and running you can slacken off the locknut and turn the bolt with you're fingers until the cam chain falls mostly silent.
As you turn the bolt with you're fingers you can feel the irregularities in the tension of the chain and the differing erratic tickover of the motor. Applying a small amount of pressure to the bolt will allow it to pre-load the chain just ever so slightly. If you go more than just a tiny amount it will start to complain.
This will show up more when the engine cools down and from cold will sound as noisy as a loose chain but a very different sound from a rattle.
On mine which is totally different to yours is sounds like 50 mph wind in the trees!!!!!! Was going to say shimmering hiss but that sounded ridiculous.

All of the above for 1981 J1 with HYVO chain and slipper blades but no rollers.
I believe the bike in question here is a Z650?

P.S. You will need a tiny 'O' ring between the lock nut and the body of the tensioner because it will weep ever so slightly.
The 'O' ring if not over tightened also serves to keep the lock nut from losening.
In de-burring the hole which i originally drilled i countersunk it slightly and this gives a nice seat for the 'O' ring on the engine side.

Hope this is of some use.


AL

[zed1015]

Does anyone use one of these, (the sort sold by debben performance).
I'm aware of their superiority for race use etc but just curious if anyone uses one on a road bike.
How they're set, tighten completely then back off x degrees or ?
mike

I use these on all of my road bikes as i'm a bit of a thrasher . Never had a problem with the std tensioners but better safe than sorry. On initial set up i use a std tensioner then remove it and set the manual one to the same length. I do this about once a year or when i remember if it starts to sound a little loose. Probably best to use this method each time if you haven't got a mechanics ''ear''.

[m1ks]

Thanks guys, yes Al, it's a Z650 F2.
Currently OK but as the tensioner needs modifiying at some point due to loss of the bolt head, (no idea how they managed that, mind) then your mod looks like a winner.

Cheers,

Mike

[bigmac103]

I use the manual tensioner on my A4, and I check the valve clearance every 2k miles (basically every service). Each time I have the top off and I can see the chain then I retention the chain. This way you control the what's going on, seems to work well so far!

[Pigford]

Before fitting the manual tensioner (Orient Express or APE) check the adjuster bolt moves easily by hand.....

When fitted, turn it in by hand until resistance is felt (cam chain is tight) then wind out 1/2 a turn.... done & dusted

[Big Fluff]

Just fit a standard Z1000A1/2 tensioner, they are manual as standard and look like what Zorded has done with his.
Personally I think the APE etc are a waste of money and look like a lego add-on
I run the standard thou type on my turbo and have never had a problem, ever.

[HowieD]

Instead of replacing the Tensioner because of the snapped head, cut a slot in the end and use a screw driver to tighten it.

Just a thought.....



regards
H