Slight issue with the starter clutch assembly here chaps..
Finally started the Z1b project up for the first time, only to get a screeching from the S.C. side. Removed the cover but I'm not sure if the big rear drive plate should spin freely from the clutch when fully tightened. If I loosen the bolt slightly it spins, but I shouldn't really have to do that.
Are all starter clutches the same for the z9s.
I'm sure I have them in the correct sequence, thick thrust washer on first etc, it's just the spinning non spinning issue that puzzling me.
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Starter Clutch
Moderators: paul doran, Taffus, KeithZ1R, chrisu
Re: Starter Clutch
it should spin freely
Re: Starter Clutch
The large starter gear needs to free wheel clockwise otherwise it will drive the starter motor which is most likely the noise you can hear.
Try the assembly without the dished rubber damper in place .
If the gear spins it needs a thinner damper or the existing one lapping on a flat surface to reduce it's thickness.
If it still locks up it is the shim arrangement or something else at fault.
All 900/1000 starter clutches are the same up to the Z1R D1 (round cam cover)
Later square cam cover mk2 motors differ slightly due to the larger crank taper.
Try the assembly without the dished rubber damper in place .
If the gear spins it needs a thinner damper or the existing one lapping on a flat surface to reduce it's thickness.
If it still locks up it is the shim arrangement or something else at fault.
All 900/1000 starter clutches are the same up to the Z1R D1 (round cam cover)
Later square cam cover mk2 motors differ slightly due to the larger crank taper.
Re: Starter Clutch
Thanks for that, i had a hunch it should be spinning.
Reference the damper, i don't have one. What is the part number for that. My sequence is.....
Firstly. Thicker washer, Shafer inwards.
Drive gear
thinner thrust washer
starter clutch
Key, then nut. Am I missing something.
..
Reference the damper, i don't have one. What is the part number for that. My sequence is.....
Firstly. Thicker washer, Shafer inwards.
Drive gear
thinner thrust washer
starter clutch
Key, then nut. Am I missing something.
..
Re: Starter Clutch
it should look like this
- Attachments
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- Kawasaki-Z1-900-Generator-starter-Motor-Rubber-Damper-Plate.jpg (21.95 KiB) Viewed 2763 times
Re: Starter Clutch
Ok. Assembly sounds correct.
Thick thrust washer with inner chamfer facing crank bearing.
Starter gear with needle roller, thinner thrust and clutch assembly with rotor..
If the starter gear is locking up without the dished damper installed then the whole assembly in nipping up on the thrust washers.
This is usually due to mixing parts , excessive lapping of the crank and rotor or that the rotor has split (usually down the key slot) and is just spreading on the taper and pushing everything inboard .
If the rotor is ok the next thing is to assemble without the thinner thrust to see if that works and then you can determine how much clearance you need.
Clearance can be gained by lapping the thick thrust (on the gear side) with fine emery on a mirror etc or some light machining of the recess where the thick thrust sits in the starter gear.
Thick thrust washer with inner chamfer facing crank bearing.
Starter gear with needle roller, thinner thrust and clutch assembly with rotor..
If the starter gear is locking up without the dished damper installed then the whole assembly in nipping up on the thrust washers.
This is usually due to mixing parts , excessive lapping of the crank and rotor or that the rotor has split (usually down the key slot) and is just spreading on the taper and pushing everything inboard .
If the rotor is ok the next thing is to assemble without the thinner thrust to see if that works and then you can determine how much clearance you need.
Clearance can be gained by lapping the thick thrust (on the gear side) with fine emery on a mirror etc or some light machining of the recess where the thick thrust sits in the starter gear.
Re: Starter Clutch
Thanks for that...
Spent most of the day trying every combination known to man. With washers, without, finished up reducing the large copper washer next to the crank.
Beats me why this should happen, suspect a slightly worn stator or thd taped on the crank. Anyway it works, not texbook but there you go. Thanks again Paul.
Spent most of the day trying every combination known to man. With washers, without, finished up reducing the large copper washer next to the crank.
Beats me why this should happen, suspect a slightly worn stator or thd taped on the crank. Anyway it works, not texbook but there you go. Thanks again Paul.
Re: Starter Clutch
Hello guys
Sorry to jump in your thread but have a similar problem. Just started a rebuilt motor, engine span on the starter motor a few times as a quick check to listen before trying to start it. Third prod of the starter resulted in nasty whirring from generator side. Stripped to find the woodruff key had sheared!
Before rebuilding, i'm not sure whether my dished damper is too big. it measures 7.3 mm. As far as i can measure, the gap is approx 7mm so i'm thinking it'd squash a little and should be ok to re use?
My question is, what does this damper do and can i run the motor without it?
What would cause the woodruff to shear?
Thanks. Chris.
Sorry to jump in your thread but have a similar problem. Just started a rebuilt motor, engine span on the starter motor a few times as a quick check to listen before trying to start it. Third prod of the starter resulted in nasty whirring from generator side. Stripped to find the woodruff key had sheared!
Before rebuilding, i'm not sure whether my dished damper is too big. it measures 7.3 mm. As far as i can measure, the gap is approx 7mm so i'm thinking it'd squash a little and should be ok to re use?
My question is, what does this damper do and can i run the motor without it?
What would cause the woodruff to shear?
Thanks. Chris.
Re: Starter Clutch
ChrisB wrote:Hello guys
Sorry to jump in your thread but have a similar problem.
Thanks. Chris.
Just posted on your other thread
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