Hi all
re-fitting a new set genuine crankcase studs to my z1 this afternoon. Cannot find a torque setting in the haynes manual. Could anyone let me know what this is and also, is it a good idea to use some blue general locktight.
I have searched some old posts here and saw values ranging from 19 ft lb to 25 ft lb depending on stud brand.
help much appreciated.
thanks
Dave
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crankcase studs
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Re: crankcase studs
Maybe wrong, but I thought you wound them in to a specified depth - ie; measure how much stud length is sticking out of the casing?
And on the 7th day... Zeds were created!
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Re: crankcase studs
thanks for that pigford, any other thoughts on this?
Re: crankcase studs
I seem to remember this applied to some h/duty APE cylinder studs.
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Re: crankcase studs
Hi Dave
I fitted some new studs a few years ago and they came pre-coated with locking red sealant as per the photo. With regards to the torque, I'm not sure what I used and can't see any given in the Kawasaki manual. However it does give general torque figures based on thread diameter and pitch, see attached photos.
I fitted some new studs a few years ago and they came pre-coated with locking red sealant as per the photo. With regards to the torque, I'm not sure what I used and can't see any given in the Kawasaki manual. However it does give general torque figures based on thread diameter and pitch, see attached photos.
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Re: crankcase studs
Hi thanks for the info. I've just checked my studs and they are pre coated similar to yours. The torque setting is handy too. Thanks again.
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Re: crankcase studs
davidcouzens wrote:Hi thanks for the info. I've just checked my studs and they are pre coated similar to yours. The torque setting is handy too. Thanks again.
Don't use the torque setting as they are not seated against anything like the head of a bolt or the surface of a nut is and you do not want to wind them and damage the top threads of the case with the small diameter section above the threads on the stud or drive them into the bottom of the hole.
Install them until they seat, you will feel that and then nip very slightly, the locking compound does the rest.
Cheers,
Mark.
Mark.
Re: crankcase studs
Still think I'm correct in saying it's final length of stud showing as this is crucial to ensure enough thread is available to torque down the head and allow it to tighten fully without excess thread bottoming out within the head nut!
The photo of the stud with "lock tight" compound appears to be shouldered anyhow?
The photo of the stud with "lock tight" compound appears to be shouldered anyhow?
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Re: crankcase studs
Hi guys. Thanks for all the replies. Has left me with some dilemmas all seem reasonable answers so I'm unsure which way to go. But inserting with care is the order of the day. Anybody else had success with this.? Thanks again. Dave
Re: crankcase studs
On the stock studs you bottom them out on the shoulders and nip them up to around 25 ft/lb.
Head nuts should be 29 ft/lb to a max of 32 ft/lb on stock studs.
Head nuts should be 29 ft/lb to a max of 32 ft/lb on stock studs.
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Re: crankcase studs
Hi All
thanks for the help, in the end i bottomed out the studs and measured them referencing another engine i have in the shed. i shall know how it went when i pop the head on and measure the thread length poking out. should be ok i think. Also i used an old head nut with a ball bearing inserted to wind them in and worked well this tip I found in here so thanks again.
regards
Dave
thanks for the help, in the end i bottomed out the studs and measured them referencing another engine i have in the shed. i shall know how it went when i pop the head on and measure the thread length poking out. should be ok i think. Also i used an old head nut with a ball bearing inserted to wind them in and worked well this tip I found in here so thanks again.
regards
Dave