Starter motor spinning but not engaging?

[SuffolkZ1r]

Hi guys.
Just wondering what could be the problem here?
The Z1R has been sitting since September and have just fitted new wiring loom, so all good was all turning over ok last week. Finally just finished putting back fairing , tank etc. turned over a few times all good then suddenly on about the third or fourth time of attempting to start the starter just was spinning and not engaging? Tried a spanner between terminals on solenoid and same , just spinning? It turns over and starts on kickstart ok ? Now put the battery on charge as reading 12.3 volts to see if this may help but not sure it will, any ideas what could be occurring?
Thanks in advance.

[Gus]

Most likely the starter clutch is worn and needs replacing

https://www.z-power.co.uk/starter-clutc ... 6507501300



Gus

[SuffolkZ1r]

Thanks for that Gus, just had a look on ZPower and could be a cheap fix if that’s the case? Looks like a relatively easy fix as well , maybe start pulling it apart tomorrow..

[Gus]

Can't remember but I think the large top yolk centre bolt will act as a rotor puller.

Could be wrong

Gus

[sean_rfi]

I think that's right Gus. The rotor puller thread is actually M16 x 1.0mm or M16 fine. I bought one from a company called Accu online
Standard M16 has a 1.5mm pitch so be careful not to use something with this thread.

[SuffolkZ1r]

Thanks guys.

[Z1streetfighter71]

A Swingarm axle is what i use.

[gray]

Swingarm axle for me too. If the rotor's never been off before it might be v tight.
You'll have to find / make a rotor holding tool to hold it steady while you screw the bolt in. A pin wrench type thing to locate into the slots on the rotor end works. Or a strap wrench wound round the rotor. Once it's off store it in the stator in the casing - it keeps its magnetism better that way I read once. When you take the rotor off and access the 3 shiny cylindrical bits they may look pretty good - but it only take a little flat spot on 1 part of 1 of them for the thing to fail. And if the battery had been a bit tired ( after cranking the starter a few times) that might have been enough to make it fail. When refitting it onto the crank use a rotating action to get the starter clutch over the lip of the crank but I can't remember if its clockwise or anticlockwise

[SuffolkZ1r]

Thanks again guys for your help, much appreciated.

[SuffolkZ1r]

Just an update of progress today.
Pulled off the alternator cover to find a nice new Electrex R099 stator has been fitted !
Great I thought, managed to get the centre bolt out then went onto take out the 3 small hex bolts but couldn’t budge them and they started to burr over which was a pain.
Anyway, thought I’d just put the cover back on and give it a go and Bingo, engine now turning over? So have left it as is to see how it goes..
Thanks again guys for your help ..

[zed1015]

Just an update of progress today.
Pulled off the alternator cover to find a nice new Electrex R099 stator has been fitted !
Great I thought, managed to get the centre bolt out then went onto take out the 3 small hex bolts but couldn’t budge them and they started to burr over which was a pain.
.

There's no need to remove those 3 bolts to replace the clutch rollers and springs though.
The old ones easily drop out of the housing when the hub gear is removed and new ones simply slot back in.

[SuffolkZ1r]

Ok. Thanks, so do you know how i get the hub gear/ rotor off?
If it gives me a problem again going forward will be nice to know it can be taken off..
Thanks

[SuffolkZ1r]

download/file.php?mode=view&id=29593

[zed1015]

Didn't realise you meant those bolts.
They are unique to the assembly of the Electrex rotor and must not be removed and would not gain you access to the clutch rollers if they were.
You just need slip the starter gear from the clutch housing on the back of the rotor to replace the springs and rollers once the whole assembly has been removed from the crank using an extractor bolt threaded into the center of the rotor..

[gray]

just to spell out the obvious. The rotor needs to come off the crank before you can see the 3 shiny cylinders. They will be easy to remove once the rotor's off, remove them and the caps on the springs and the springs themselves. Once replaced with the kit items, it is a hassle getting the rotor back on the crank without them falling out ( dab of grease might help?) , that's when you need to do the little twisting action to the rotor, to settle the cylinders deeper into their recesses. Once the rotor's in your hand you'll see which direction to rotate, to settle the cylinders deeper into the starter clutch at reassembly time. Don't forget to line up the slots for the Woodruff key as you continue to feed the rotor onto the crank