Hello, Having shimmed up my head on my Z1B I find one shim needs to be 1.9mm thick, all the rest were 2mm +, I have been advised this is too thin and would not
fit it but what is the solution?
Stinky
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Shim adjustment
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- Regular Poster
- Posts: 30
- Joined: 3rd Jan 2019
- Location: Knaresborough
Re: Shim adjustment
Sadly, you'll need to remove the head and valves and then have some metal trimmed off the valve stems. While you're at it, it would be advisable to check and sort the valve guides as seats.
This is a job best left to those who are properly skilled and equipped. Depending where you are in the UK will determine who might be best to use.
I typically pay £300 for the guides replacing, seats recutting and stems trimming (if necessary).
This is a job best left to those who are properly skilled and equipped. Depending where you are in the UK will determine who might be best to use.
I typically pay £300 for the guides replacing, seats recutting and stems trimming (if necessary).
http://www.airevalleyclassics.co.uk
10% discount code Z1OCTEN
Keyster rebuild kits & carburettor spares - airscrews, jets, needles, starter plungers & gaskets.
Also petrol/ethanol proof float bowl gaskets. IMD pistons preferred seller.
10% discount code Z1OCTEN
Keyster rebuild kits & carburettor spares - airscrews, jets, needles, starter plungers & gaskets.
Also petrol/ethanol proof float bowl gaskets. IMD pistons preferred seller.
Re: Shim adjustment
The head needs to come off and the valves need tipping at the very least.
0.30mm can be ground off the stem to get you in the 220 ish range but you will soon run out of adjustment and really need to be in the thicker end of the shim range which can be achieved by skimming the collets and retainers along with further tipping of the valves.
0.30mm can be ground off the stem to get you in the 220 ish range but you will soon run out of adjustment and really need to be in the thicker end of the shim range which can be achieved by skimming the collets and retainers along with further tipping of the valves.
Re: Shim adjustment
zed1015 wrote:The head needs to come off and the valves need tipping at the very least.
0.30mm can be ground off the stem to get you in the 220 ish range but you will soon run out of adjustment and really need to be in the thicker end of the shim range which can be achieved by skimming the collets and retainers along with further tipping of the valves.
You put this more eloquently than me..
http://www.airevalleyclassics.co.uk
10% discount code Z1OCTEN
Keyster rebuild kits & carburettor spares - airscrews, jets, needles, starter plungers & gaskets.
Also petrol/ethanol proof float bowl gaskets. IMD pistons preferred seller.
10% discount code Z1OCTEN
Keyster rebuild kits & carburettor spares - airscrews, jets, needles, starter plungers & gaskets.
Also petrol/ethanol proof float bowl gaskets. IMD pistons preferred seller.
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- Regular Poster
- Posts: 30
- Joined: 3rd Jan 2019
- Location: Knaresborough
Re: Shim adjustment
OK Thanks for the advice, the head is currently off and having work done at Cylinder Head Shop in Louth so I will have a new seat put in on at the same time....its only
money.
money.
Re: Shim adjustment
When i had my head (on bike) work done which included skim, new hardened seats and valve guides along with a timesert in the plug hole and new exhaust valves (valves and guides i supplied), it was deemed the intakes ones were ok (assume because of cooler charge). I told them that the bike used shims and which shim went were, they tipped the valves for me, which was mostly good however it wasnt perfect as still needed to alter a few. You could always ask the eng company to do that at same time it may save both time and money
Just a thought.
Just a thought.
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