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Z1000 J Camchain Tensioner Question ?

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Foxfix
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Z1000 J Camchain Tensioner Question ?

#1 PostAuthor: Foxfix » Mon Dec 16, 2024 2:24 pm

I read somewhere on a USA Z Forum that once the Cam Cover has been removed and refitted to the J Motor, that the standard auto camchain tensioner must be reset.
I cannot find referecne to this anywhere in the K Workshop Manual and have not came across other bikes that this is applicable to ?

Can anyone confirm this as true or false ?

Thanks

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zed1015
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Re: Z1000 J Camchain Tensioner Question ?

#2 PostAuthor: zed1015 » Mon Dec 16, 2024 5:19 pm

Yes! On the J/GPZ engines with HYVO chain the tensioner MUST be removed before fitting the cam cover and then re-installed and tensioned afterwards.

Foxfix
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Re: Z1000 J Camchain Tensioner Question ?

#3 PostAuthor: Foxfix » Tue Dec 17, 2024 7:54 am

Thank you for confirmation.

I am assuming my KZ1000CSR (81) is the same as the J (motor anyway) ?

Thanks

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Re: Z1000 J Camchain Tensioner Question ?

#4 PostAuthor: zed1015 » Tue Dec 17, 2024 8:25 am

Foxfix wrote:Thank you for confirmation.

I am assuming my KZ1000CSR (81) is the same as the J (motor anyway) ?

Thanks


Yes! All 80 onwards non kickstart 998cc - 1089cc are J based engines with HYVO chain.

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Re: Z1000 J Camchain Tensioner Question ?

#5 PostAuthor: Foxfix » Fri Dec 27, 2024 5:48 pm

Just following on from this.................

Does this mean the WHOLE tensioner body has to be removed, or is it just the Cross Piece that needs removing and refitting ??

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Al
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Re: Z1000 J Camchain Tensioner Question ?

#6 PostAuthor: Al » Fri Dec 27, 2024 10:53 pm

Manual cam chain tensioners as replacements are probably very good, i cant comment, i modified the auto one because i am cheap.
Two things; manual tensioners do not take account of chain stretch when hot and cold like the spring loaded originals do and setting for one will make it wrong for the other. With reference to youre question; no you shouldnt take the whole tensioner out if only removing and replacing the cam cover. The chain will jump the sprockets and keeping the spring loaded body will go a long way to stopping this but its no guarantee. Just remove the 17mm headed sleeve, spring and locking cross slide. With mine the modification is only concerned with stopping the locking cross slide backing off. It does not prevent the spring loaded main plunger activating to take up any slack.
On that; it might be time to replace the 40 year old main plunger spring. Again, being cheap, i preferred to put two narrow annulus washers behind it in front of the body :D
AL
1981 J1


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