Double the troubleZZ. AMA style Racecrafters Z1000 (completed) and Moriwaki Z1R Turbo.

[KWACKERZ1]

Stunning work as always Rob.
Love that very nice

[zed1015]

Time to get back in the shed now the weathers warming up so bought some sections of tubing and lumps of ally so i can tackle the turbos exhaust outlet and end can.

First job was to make another bolt on V band coupling for the turbine housing .

With the V band couplings stub pressed into the flange and welded from the back the clearance is very tight and after trimming the locknuts and countersinking the washers into the flange the clamp still needed relieving to clear the studs.

The bends are the tightest radius i could find and the first one needs trimming back a fair bit to get it where i want it and get rid of that vintage bath tap vibe.

Before being welded on

Rather than just having a short outlet i want to run the exhaust Egli style down, under and behind the deep sump ending with the Moriwaki can in the usual position on the right so it retains the silhouette of a normally aspirated bike from a distance.
The pipe has to hang a little lower than the Egli because of the lower frame rail but i've had the bike laid right over resting on an old genny cover and there's room for the bend to run under in front of the sidestand bracket with some clearance so there shouldn't be any chance of it decking when cornering under normal circumstances.

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That's as far as i can go with the exhaust for now because the straight run to the lower bend touches the clutch slave so the next job is to sort out the chain alignment with that 6 inch rim and see if i can change the support bearing design and push the outrigger plate inboard a few mill to gain some clearance.

[zed1015]

Bit the bullet yesterday and tackled the chain alignment.
Clearance is very tight and when i first fitted the wheel way back in 2019 i had to machine the sprocket carrier and sink its bearing 10mm just to get the wheel in with only 3mm of spacer showing between the carrier and swingarm and no room for the mounting studs or even the sprocket without the teeth clipping the inside of the arm.

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Ideally for a 6 inch rim you would get away with a 7/8ths offset front sprocket but because of the rear wheels increased hub offset over the 5.5 inch rim there was no way i could move the rear sprocket that far inboard to line up without wiping out nearly all the threads for the sprocket studs so i've machined the maximum i dare which is 10mm just get the clearance needed to fit the sprocket and allow the studs to clear the arm.

The clearance looks wider than it is due to the pic angle and there's actually only 3.5mm between the stud and the arm with just 2mm between the stud and the weld bead for the axle block .

and after some further measurements the sprocket is still a full 5mm outboard from the centerline than initially planned for which now means i need to offset the front sprocket from just under 7/8"ths (21.5 mm ) to over an inch at 26.5 mm and also cocks up my plan for using stock (cheap) standard front sprockets like this... .

Which was achieved by using a 1000 ST output shaft and extending it with the splined portion of an 1100 Unitrack input shaft screwed on.

And then making up a splined coupling from an old clutch hub center and a needle roller bearing inner ring pressed on to provide a suitable surface for the oil seal.

Which slips on to transfer the power across the joint

And then the original sprocket spacer to make up the previously correct 7/8"ths offset with a stock sprocket.

So with that option out of the window i've now had to reconfigure that arrangement with a shorter spacer to get the correct 26.5mm distance

with a 5/8"ths offset sprocket .

And then make up a splined spacer to take up the shortfall on the shaft

So that the nut has something to tighten against

Job done .

And glad i left plenty of leeway for chain clearance when i scalloped the frame

[dixiethedog]

Wow to all of your projects. You make everything look easy when in reality it takes a fantastic amount of skill. I am in awe. This is from somebody who has just spent an hour or two machining a wheel spacer wrongly.

[r3sc]

Top work as usual Rob!

[zed1015]

With the chain alignment sorted the front sprocket is sitting 5mm further out than originally planned and the support plate has moved 9mm inboard to clear the exhaust so there's now no room for the bearing support stub .

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So came up with an alternative and bored out the support plate .

To mount the bearing directly in it from the outside.

Then secured it with an alloy cap which has a recess for the retaining clip which holds the bearing in position..

Just have to make the support stub from the sprocket to the bearing and that's that issue solved.

As a result of moving the support plate inboard there was also an extra 9mm of the gear selector shaft exposed so bored out the plate to take this insert which presses in and doubles the support length for the shaft as well as holding a dust seal

Just about got away with it .
The clutch slave runs very close to the chain with just enough clearance for a guard.

And the exhaust doesn't clash with the clutch slave.

Which meant i could now weld on the first straight and lower bend.

Which just sneaks past the sidestand mount.

And under the frame rail.

Where i've finished it with another V band connector ready to meet up with the link pipe and can which i need to build and route from the other side .

And will enable this section to be easily removed for access to the clutch slave and sprocket etc without having to pull the whole system.

[ollie]

well after reading and seeing i'm worn out Rob ,that is some work .How you managed to do that, given the gaps etc is beyond me .I think i need to lay down ...lol .unreal work fella

[zed1015]

Postie delivered a few bits of stainless tube etc so hopefully have enough material to finish the exhaust.

Perforated baffle, a couple of reducers and a length of stainless rod completes what i need for the can .

And this 180 U bend should provide enough material for the link pipe.

I'm aiming for something resembling the shape of the monster silencer with the long taper from the exhaust and short taper on the outlet.

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So have made a start with the Moriwaki can sleeve kindly donated by the late Steve Sharp (Ginger Bear) being shortend by around a third to remove some dents, center the logo and get the proportions i want then drilled some suitably spaced holes for attaching the ends.

Which have been roughed out of the two lumps of ally i had ready with corresponding threaded holes to bolt it all together.

[zed1015]

The original idea was to have the can a bolt on fitment but the diameter of the flange needed for the 63mm link pipe wouldn't allow for hardly any taper on the intake cap so changed the design to a slip on which incorperates these reducers to serve as the connector and baffle holders
Both reducers have had their smallest diameters skimmed externally so that they are truly round and parallel on the narrowed sections with the top one for the slip on connector and the bottom cut down for the outlet end cap.

The wider section for the slip on connector was a very slack fit and tapered so was slotted and welded back up whilst clamped square to the pipe.

Then the lump of ally earmarked for the intake cap was whittled away on the lathe until i was happy with the shape and bored out to take the slip on connector.

Which now has the spring tags welded on that were formed from the stainless rod.

I had thought that i may need to secure the connector to the cap with some rivets which is one reason i left the 12mm long straight portion at the end but it was such a tight press fit i don't think it will need it

Inside of the cap has had as much material removed as possible to reduce the weight and expose around 10mm of the pressed in reducer for the baffle tube to locate on.

Quite happy with how that turned out so next job is to tackle the other end.

[zed1015]

The same treatment for the outlet but 20mm shorter then bored out from the inside and stopping short of going all the way through to create a raised lip.

So that the reducer/baffle holder has something to stop against once pressed in .

Which gives a neat blended in finish to the exit.

And the baffle tube slips in here.

All done more or less and ready for assembly.

Pretty much what i was aiming for.

And looking much better once i'd spun the endcaps in the lathe, run over them with the wet n dry to smooth and radius the sharp edges and then gave it all a quick polish.

Some finishing to do when it comes to the final build and i may highlight the Moriwaki text with some paint.

[r3sc]

That’s spot on Rob, it’ll look great on the bike!

[ollie]

Superb work Rob ,love the look

[zed1015]

Needed to mount the can in the position i want so i had a point to build the link pipe back to.
Started with welding some threaded stubs on the frame the same as i did with the racecrafters.

Then turned my attention to the can mount.
I didn't want to obscure the "Moriwaki" text with a strap so cobbled up some square steel bar and flat plate into a press tool to form a rivet on stainless bracket the same as was common back in the day on Micron cans etc.

Which had an 8mm wide slot milled in

And a sliding captive nut to allow some adjustability.

After which the two were linked together via a suitable hanger made from 6mm aluminium with a couple of angled holes to suit the Z1R's styling milled in for lightness.

[Z1streetfighter71]

That Moriwaki end can is pure exhaust porn....

[zed1015]

The gap between the vertical outlet and end can is now bridged with the link pipe which tucked in nicely behind the sump and in the correct position at the first attempt this time.

Just need to add the spring tags for the can and a support bracket to one of the original Z1R exhaust collector mounts so that the link pipe doesn't drop when the vertical outlet section is removed.