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Zed 900 road racer - Updated with fixed links.
Moderators: KeithZ1R, chrisu, paul doran, Taffus
One more job before the barrels go on.
Something i came up with years ago that will keep the middle eight barrel studs rust free and looking good , especially usefully if re-using the old ones that have gone a bit manky and lost their plating.
The middle eight are not enclosed like the four outer ones and get the full force of the elements and even new ones won't look good for long especially if you actually use the bike.
After cleaning up the studs and giving them a coat of paint or grease, cut eight lengths of 12mm electrical heat shrink tube, 4 at 120mm and 4 at 150mm.
Slot them over the appropriate studs
And shrink them on with the heat gun making sure they sit in the crankcase recess round the bottom of the studs.
Finally trim the sleeving so the tops come just up to the bottom of the threads where the head nuts go.
Once done, the corrosion that usually builds up around the studs that makes the barrels difficult to remove later will be no more and the studs will look good for years.
In fact 20 years and still going strong on the first engine i used this on.
Now back to the barrels and apply some graphogen around the lower inch or so of the bores
And on they go.
No ring compessor for me, Just set the block at a slight angle and work the rings in one at a time across each piston.
Only possible after many many engine rebuilds
And it's on
waiting for the head.
Pic of the sleeved studs through the finning. Should stay looking like this for years.( But not as blurry
)
Something i came up with years ago that will keep the middle eight barrel studs rust free and looking good , especially usefully if re-using the old ones that have gone a bit manky and lost their plating.
The middle eight are not enclosed like the four outer ones and get the full force of the elements and even new ones won't look good for long especially if you actually use the bike.
After cleaning up the studs and giving them a coat of paint or grease, cut eight lengths of 12mm electrical heat shrink tube, 4 at 120mm and 4 at 150mm.
Slot them over the appropriate studs
And shrink them on with the heat gun making sure they sit in the crankcase recess round the bottom of the studs.
Finally trim the sleeving so the tops come just up to the bottom of the threads where the head nuts go.
Once done, the corrosion that usually builds up around the studs that makes the barrels difficult to remove later will be no more and the studs will look good for years.
In fact 20 years and still going strong on the first engine i used this on.
Now back to the barrels and apply some graphogen around the lower inch or so of the bores
And on they go.
No ring compessor for me, Just set the block at a slight angle and work the rings in one at a time across each piston.
Only possible after many many engine rebuilds
And it's on
waiting for the head.Pic of the sleeved studs through the finning. Should stay looking like this for years.( But not as blurry
)
Last edited by zed1015 on Wed Mar 25, 2020 12:31 pm, edited 4 times in total.
-
Ginger Bear
- Hardcore
- Posts: 5512
- Joined: 16th Dec 2008
- Location: In the Dark.
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Stripped a 900 head out tonight .
Original bronze guides are buggered but no surprise there so will gut it bare for blasting.
Otherwise it's a near minter.
If not immediately swapping the guides they can be removed cold to avoid heating the head too many times and risking distortion ( I will fit the new guides at the same time as baking the paint )
Simply carefully drill up the centers with progressively larger bits until the guide walls are about 1/2 mill thick which will release their 'fit' and they will tap out with very little force and no risk of wear in cylinder head.
Drill from the combustion chamber side and stop short of breaking through at the stem seal side so as to leave an internal lip to drift against which effectively pulls the remains of the guide out
Original bronze guides are buggered but no surprise there so will gut it bare for blasting.
Otherwise it's a near minter.
If not immediately swapping the guides they can be removed cold to avoid heating the head too many times and risking distortion ( I will fit the new guides at the same time as baking the paint )
Simply carefully drill up the centers with progressively larger bits until the guide walls are about 1/2 mill thick which will release their 'fit' and they will tap out with very little force and no risk of wear in cylinder head.
Drill from the combustion chamber side and stop short of breaking through at the stem seal side so as to leave an internal lip to drift against which effectively pulls the remains of the guide out
Last edited by zed1015 on Tue Feb 20, 2018 9:28 pm, edited 1 time in total.
As already said the heat shrink is a top tip 
Sure many will be using that - i will next time the barrells are off 
Same goes for the 'placcy bag' rather than rags on the crankcase mouths.
Im learning all the time here.
Will the head be 'worked on' either by R.Upperton or yourself?
Keep us posted on progress.
Sure many will be using that - i will next time the barrells are off
Same goes for the 'placcy bag' rather than rags on the crankcase mouths.
Im learning all the time here.
Will the head be 'worked on' either by R.Upperton or yourself?
Keep us posted on progress.
Wots up DOHC
-
Is Vic There
- Hardcore
- Posts: 1285
- Joined: 8th Nov 2011
- Location: Brisbane, Australia.
sanderz wrote:Will the head be 'worked on' either by R.Upperton or yourself?.
Will be doing it myself.
Not going mad with the engine though as i hope to make the most of the power to weight ratio , just std mk2 cams dialled in, Bored out carbs, bellmouths and 4-1 pipe .
Should be quick enough and not too greedy on juice.
Got a chunk of ally through the post today so took a break from the head and finished the blanking plate for the now unused ignition side.
Made the center a press fit in the modded ign housing and styled it to match the bulge of the 'J' alt cover which will be slimmed and skeletonised to act as a stone guard for the electrex ignition
Made the center a press fit in the modded ign housing and styled it to match the bulge of the 'J' alt cover which will be slimmed and skeletonised to act as a stone guard for the electrex ignition
Last edited by zed1015 on Tue Feb 20, 2018 9:29 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Busy day today.
Spent this morning blasting the head.
And then painted and baked it
New guides fitted and seats recut
Ports have been opened up to let the flavour flood out.
A few more hours work setting up the valve heights etc and it's ready for fitting,
Spent this morning blasting the head.
And then painted and baked it
New guides fitted and seats recut
Ports have been opened up to let the flavour flood out.
A few more hours work setting up the valve heights etc and it's ready for fitting,
Last edited by zed1015 on Tue Feb 20, 2018 9:33 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Valve stem heights all done and set around the minimum height so will be in the 280/300- ish shim range once i've lapped the valves.
Home made height tools make for quick checking and adjustment and much easier and consistantly accurate than using a vernier.
Home made height tools make for quick checking and adjustment and much easier and consistantly accurate than using a vernier.
Last edited by zed1015 on Tue Feb 20, 2018 9:35 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Building this motor on a budget and just using up stuff i have lurking about so the inlet valves are std and have been trimmed along with the retainers etc to get max shim sizes back.
Plenty of graphogen on the buckets and valve lapping sucker is ideal for working it round the bores to get an even coating.
The std exhaust valves were quite battered and after recutting the seats and heads were borderline for trimming the retainers so a cunning plan was executed.
I had some 1mm oversize stainless valves from a customers bike that had very slightly wonky heads after his local bike shop ballsed up his engine rebuild.
So i chucked them up in the lathe and viola ! one set of straight std size stainless exhaust valves.
Plenty of graphogen on the buckets and valve lapping sucker is ideal for working it round the bores to get an even coating.
The std exhaust valves were quite battered and after recutting the seats and heads were borderline for trimming the retainers so a cunning plan was executed.
I had some 1mm oversize stainless valves from a customers bike that had very slightly wonky heads after his local bike shop ballsed up his engine rebuild.
So i chucked them up in the lathe and viola ! one set of straight std size stainless exhaust valves.
Last edited by zed1015 on Tue Feb 20, 2018 9:36 pm, edited 1 time in total.
The head is now finished and bench shimmed so on with finishing the idler gears so i can fit it.
Sourced new roller bearings for the idler wheels i modified earlier.
http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/p92295 ... _info.html
Strange how kawasaki opted for these in imperial when everything else is metric ?
Then on to my skinflint approach to a liska tensioner.
Left one is std z9/1000.
Middle is Z650 which has a bigger wheel . The black areas need removing to clear the barrel casting etc.
and right is modded Z650 item with idler sprocket.
Sourced new roller bearings for the idler wheels i modified earlier.
http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/p92295 ... _info.html
Strange how kawasaki opted for these in imperial when everything else is metric ?
Then on to my skinflint approach to a liska tensioner.
Left one is std z9/1000.
Middle is Z650 which has a bigger wheel . The black areas need removing to clear the barrel casting etc.
and right is modded Z650 item with idler sprocket.
Last edited by zed1015 on Tue Feb 20, 2018 9:38 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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