Double the troublezz. AMA style Racecrafters Z1000 and Moriwaki Z1R Turbo.

[moizeau]

Rob, you should buy a load, rework them and sell them out

[zed1015]

Rob, you should buy a load, rework them and sell them out

At the £700 + each they sting you for to start with i don't think it would be a worthwhile effort..

[zed1015]

Had a MAJOR stroke of luck this morning regarding the rotor puller dilemma.
The back of the original rotor hub just happens to have three plain blanked 6mm holes next to the threaded through holes for the starter clutch mounting bolts.

They serve no purpose in the assembly of the alternator and must have been there for locating on a machining jig at the factory.
I can't believe my luck with this but they are perfect for mounting a puller and i don't have to spend a couple of hours making a one off indexing jig to get my own holes drilled at exactly 120 degrees apart.
They were only a couple of millimeter short so once drilled through and tapped m8 i was able to machine the hub to the correct length for mounting the electrex rotor without having to retain the extractor bolt threads.

Plenty of distance between the mounting bolts and the hub for when it comes to making the puller.

There's still a few of the original extractor threads left in the hub but they are too shallow for the bolt to get a decent engagement so these will be machined out to allow the puller bolt to pass through and the Electrex rotor can now fit virtually unmodified with just a locating pin needed to complete the main work of the conversion .

So after a few minutes rummaging around in the scrap bin i found a 4mm x 10mm needle bearing roller which was ideal for the job once it was pressed in to a suitably sized hole..
The pin also bridges the intersection of the hub and pressed on outer sleeve and locks them all together for belt and braces security.

A corresponding hole in the rotor ( which was drilled first then transfered to the hub ) now ensures that it isn't relying on the tightness of the rotor bolt to prevent it moving.

[zed1015]

The M16 x 1.5 tap i've been waiting for turned up today for the Kawasaki puller bolt thread so spent a few productive hours in the shed knocking up the puller.

The inner m8 bolts fit the modified kawasaki rotor hub.

And the outer m6 bolts fit the Electrex one.

The main body is aluminium with the threaded center being a steel top hat that has been pressed in from the inside and i'll eventually come up with a proper holding tool to prevent it from turning when i decide the best way to do it.

A couple of test runs with the rotor torqued up proved successful so i can now go ahead with tweaking the final fit and freewheeling clearance for the starter gear.

[r3sc]

That’s looking really good and well thought out!

[Z1streetfighter71]

Said it before and ill say it again, you are on the next level to the best of us mate.

[zed1015]

Got the freewheel clearance sorted and had a bit of starter clutch thrust washer and shim tweaking to do to move the starter clutch and gear inboard another millimeter or so as it's face was just clipping the inside of the cover so with that done there's just one more job to do on the rotor assembly before tackling the final flaw of the Electrex alternator.

As you can see on the stock rotor and starter clutch there's a dowel which locks the two together

This is because the three fully threaded short rotor mounting bolts are a very slack fit in the body of the starter clutch with over a millimeter of slop and without the dowel in place the clutch and rotor will shift about on acceleration and deceleration which will cause the bolts to eventually loosen at the very least .

I had already planned on a solution for my own rotor mount because the dowel location in the scrap rotor was deleted when the hub was removed as it was in the surrounding ally.

But it also turns out that the Electrex mount on the right doesn't have provision for the dowel either which is a another major balls up so anyone running one needs to keep and eye on the bolts and ideally perform the same solution as mine .

Which is a top hat sleeve .

Pressed into each hole .

And in the true spirit of recycling they are genuine repurposed Kawasaki Z1 camchain top idler collars which were exactly the correct diameter at the wide end to fit the counter bore and just needed a slight height reduction of the wider face to allow the bolt head to remain just below the surface to clear the starter gear and the smaller tube sections o/d slimming to allow a tight press into the housing .

And then the excess length on the opposite side reducing with a counter bore cutter.

Until they sat flush with the surface .

And once in i was able to carefully bore the sleeves to a tight slip fit on the plain shank portion of some longer bolts ( more Kawasaki of the same tensile strength ) without fear of the thin walls collapsing in the process now that they are supported ..

And then trim them the to the correct length.

The original bolts on the right were short of using all the available threads so i've made the replacements longer to take advantage of them all .

So that the ends sit flush to the surface and help spread the torque a little more.

And that's it.
Not one bit of radial play even with the bolts just slotted in and certainly more secure than the original single dowel which have been known to work loose .

[zed1015]

One last job before i can finally fit the alternator permanently and go do something else.

For your hard earned cash the Electrex offering comes with a bonus feature that will starve the top end of oil and destroy your cams in the process.

This "feature" means there's no provision in the fancy cnc'd cover for the capping of the main oil gallery as can be seen highlighted on the stock cover

And ensures that all the lovely oil that gets pumped up from the sump immediately takes a short cut straight back down via this open end of the main oil gallery with very little chance of it ever giving the cylinder head a visit .

What's even more shocking is that Electrex have known of this fault for years and are still selling them with no modification and no mention of the issue to the buyer

The solution would appear to be a simple bung but due to Electrex's brilliant idea of positioning the output wires, cable strap, mounting screw and grommet in the same spot it's not as straight forward as it should be .

So first up was to machine the diameters on some ally bar and then add a couple of milled flats to clear the casting boss and rubber grommet.

And then a more elaborate three stepped arrangment on the other side.

With one of the stepped recesses to clear the screw, the other to prevent the cable strap and wires ever moving away from the cover and getting cut by the starter gear as it runs very close to them .

And the longer protrusion to butt up against the inside of the cover once fitted to keep the tight push fit bung seated against the oil pressure and the sharp edge on the milled flat for the grommet radiused where the output wires pass to prevent them chafing .

Job done ready for the cover.

And to finish it off i've also counterbored the covers mounting holes for a neater look and added one of those Ricks HD starter motors for an easier life spinning the higher comp motor.

[zed1015]

Got a good few hours in recently but mainly on stuff that can't be seen.
Rebuilt the oil pump and made this oil pan gate which allowed me to blast, paint and fit the sump to the motor with new 'O'ring and sump plug.

Gate open

And gate closed

And got the camcover, kickstart and trans covers painted in the same session and fitted along with the offset sprocket and bearing.

Then for something a bit more interesting to do i picked up some 250mm squares of 10mm 7075 alloy plate to make two duplicates of my Z1R's outrigger bearing support plate.

And once trimmed close to size they were just small enough to fit in the 4 jaw so i could bore the holes for the bearing support stub.

Which was then used to pin on the Z1R's plate with a tight fitting mandel .

Along with a cap head screw bolted through to lock it in position.

So all the mounting holes could be accurately transfered over.

Once all the holes were done both new plates were bolted together and the excess material trimmed off with the disc cutter close to the scribed outline

And then clamped in the mill to machine the plates as a pair up to the outline of the final shape. .

After rounding off the corners it was time for a test fit which was spot on but the plain alloy just didn't look right and needed some sort of detail .

So pinched one of the grandkids felt tips and had a play about until i got something i was fairly happy with then gave the mill another visit.

That's more like it.
Can't go wrong with go faster stripes..
Just need to make the standoff spacers and bearing stub to complete it and those slots are probably going to get infilled in black.
Gonna leave the other one blank for now and see if i can come up with a different design that suits the Moriwaki themed turbo build.

[HowieD]

You can't beat some Go Faster Stripes

[zed1015]

Finally got the motor buttoned up.
Outer covers and external cam oiling lines fitted so filled with oil and spun on the starter until oil appeared from the cam journals then sealed up the cam cover after fitting some ally cam end plugs.

Clutch cover has quite a bit of meat on it so added a bit of extra dimension with a protective recess for the denso graphic.
Much nicer than just slapping it on the surface and prevents the sticker edge getting caught when cleaning .

Made some stainless exhaust studs and got the downpipes on but they run very close to the sump and the collector fouls the stock filter cover so had to knock up another low profile version with flush fitting bolt the same as i did on the alloy cafe..

After skimming the filter cover level with the sump fins and machining a recess for the filter bolt head an original filter bolt was cut and shut shorter by 15mm.
The bolt head was then machined off, a hex to take an allen key broached in and the bare steel head was sweated with sifbronze to keep it rust proof.

Plenty of clearance for the collector now.

Also felt there was something missing from the outrigger plate so added a couple of arcs to highlight the bearing stub mount.

[zed1015]

With the filter cover height reduced the collector is now fitted complete with spring tags and springs

And the cut down Kerker can rebuilt and repacked complete with NOS early style Kerker " Racing System" badge .

Which completes the exhaust .

And the eagle eyed may notice that the angle grinder has been back in action again which has resulted in the link pipes third and final incarnation which takes a straighter path to the can and is tucked in tighter to the frame for better ground clearance.

[r3sc]

That is a thing of beauty! It’s a beautifully made monster! Keep the posts coming!

[zed1015]

Plugging away at the small snagging jobs that seem to take much longer than they should.

Bottom rear shock eyes needed the bolt hole diameter reducing down to 10mm to match the XJR arm with the aid of some top hat sleeves .

Which also centralises them in the 4mm wider mounts.

And a 2mm spacer on the inside of the top mount to keep them parallel.

The 5/8th's offset sprocket prevented the inner steel guard from being fitted so have added a 15mm extension.

Which will get powercoated satin black to blend in with the cases when i take in the next batch.

The outrigger plate now has it's mounting spacers and bearing support stub.

Which completes that assembly apart from final paint and polish.

And while i was making the outrigger spacers i also knocked up the rear brake torque arm.

Now that the side stand is on i found that all the gear linkage arms i have were too long which caused the ball joint to foul the side stand bracket or spring so found these splined steel blocks online so i could make one to the correct length and offset.

BEFORE... DURING ... AFTER ...

They came in a pack of five so will make a couple more while i'm at it for the turbo etc and have them zinc plated.

Once that was done the knock on affect of the shorter arm also caused link rod to slightly foul the footrest plate so had to mill a recess for clearance.

Next up was to make a polyethelene chain guide
I usually use a 60mm block and mill out a slot so it slips over the swing arm but the price of anything over 30mm now appears to need a second mortgage so had to use some 30mm and 12mm sheet and make it in sections.

Doesn't look too bad and will do the job.

And that is the left side more or less done.

[Gus]

Hi Rob.

What is this arrangement for?

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