Double the troublezz. AMA style Racecrafters Z1000 and Moriwaki Z1R Turbo.

[zed1015]

Made a start on the foot controls.
Yamaha R1 pegs, ZXR levers and some 16mm HE30 ally plate.

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Pivot on the R1 pegs is 17mm and the ZXR's lever bush id is 18mm so some slack to be taken up.
With the bush removed from the ZXR lever it's out to 20mm and the R1 pivot is also 4mm longer than the width of the zxr levers so time to throw some nylon bar in the chuck

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Which materialised into a couple of these top hat bushes to make up the difference in each direction.

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Od of the bush was made slightly oversize and the so was the id by the same amount so that the fitted bush would (should) be the correct size.
Once installed it came out a little tight for the pegs so made a simple reamer to open it up to the correct size

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Perfect fit, Smooth action and no play.

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Yamasaki... Both sides done... Looks like they were made for each other

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[zed1015]

Mounting plates next on the list.
For both bikes i'm duplicating the riding position of my Wakisaki Z1R so pulled the gear side control off the bike to use as a template.

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After a few attempts i figure out the most economical use of the material and get a nice neat off cut for future use

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All dissected, drilled and bolted together ready to mill off the excess once i cobble up a fixture to mount it on the lathe cross slide.
Fingers crossed i get four identical mounts in one hit.

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[zed1015]

Some Tee nuts i needed to fit the slots in the recently aquired matching slide for my Harrison lathe finally turned up today so rigged up a mount to clamp a milling vice to it so i can securely hold the workpiece at the correct height for machining

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At the business end i have a 6 tip indexable milling head which my son recently rescued from the skip at work.
There's nothing wrong with it and even the inserts are new.
It's criminal what people throw in the bin.
It fits nicely in the chuck and is far superior to the fly cutter i've been using previously

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Maximum speed and a few light cuts it goes through the ally like butter

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And leaves a very smooth finish.

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Do the other two sides , nibble the corners close to the line and round off by hand and they've turned out not too bad

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[zed1015]

All done and shaped

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Then back on the vertical slide and mill a recess on the back

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So that they clear the frame tube and weld beads once bolted on.

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Next drill a 5mm hole and whittle it square with a bit of sharpened tool steel to take the footrest location pegs

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And that's the first set completed

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Brake side in situ and the look of the exhaust position isn't improved any so the next job will be out with the hacksaw to the collector joint and rotate the link pipe to close up the gap to the frame..

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[zed1015]

Bit the bullet, fired up the disc cutter and did the deed

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Jigged it up and welded it back on.
Surprisingly a tiny rotation of just 3mm was all that it needed to get it right

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But this threw the exhaust outlet much further off vertical than i thought it would

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So out with a carbide burr and carefully cut the weld

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Until the mounting plate comes free

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Then weld it back on in it's new position

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Exactly how it should have looked in the first place with a much closer fit to the frame and cleaner sweep up to the can

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[750 R1]

Do you have enough room for your heal to clear the muffler when your feet are on the pegs ?
Great work as usual, I wish i possessed half your skill...!

[zed1015]

Do you have enough room for your heal to clear the muffler when your feet are on the pegs ?

Yes! It's deceiving from the side view but with the curvature of the can there's enough clearance .
I sat on the bike to make sure before welding the pipe up again.
Didn't want to be chopping it a second time

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[750 R1]

Photos can be deceiving. I find most of the time I have the ball of my foot on the pegs anyway, only slide it down to use the rear brake.... Bikes coming along nicely...

[Mr Puffin]

More great workmanship Zed Great to see this project back on the go again

[Z1streetfighter71]

Im excited to to see these take shape!

[Gus]

Mounting plates next on the list.
For both bikes i'm duplicating the riding position of my Wakisaki Z1R so pulled the gear side control off the bike to use as a template.

Hi Rob

Could you tell me the pitch of the footrest frame mounting holes?

Cheers

Gus

[zed1015]

Hi Rob

Could you tell me the pitch of the footrest frame mounting holes?

Cheers

Gus

Do you mean the thread pitch ?
M10 X 1.25mm.

[Gus]

Sorry, distance between the holes.

I'm about to bid on a set of rear sets.

Cheers

Bought them anyway and will make adaptors

Gus

[zed1015]

Been a while since any work has been done on the project bikes ..
This is because i bought a Harrison mill at the end of 2021 to restore without actually having anywhere to put it.
It's a rare 240v metric factory version so just plug in and no mucking about with 3 phase inverters etc and as well as spending the year totally rebuilding and sourcing scarce parts for it which wasn't part of the plan i've also had to totally re-jig the workshop so i can fit everything in and regain enough space to commence work on the bikes.

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The whole operation turned into something much bigger and took a lot longer than intended and the quest for maximising the space i have meant building a stud dividing wall to provide a backdrop for the lathe which i've had to rotate 90 degrees to make way for the mill and then shelving every last bit of bare wall available to take the extra tooling and stuff.

And then to claw back lost parking space i had a daft idea and went and built an electric cable winch operated storage shelf/lift for the drouin as you do so i can get two bikes in the space of one.

So that's the very shortened excuse for the lack of progress ( not to mention the carpal tunnel surgery thrown in for good measure ) and now i can get back to getting these bikes built.

[zed1015]

First job on the list now i have room to swing a cat was to sort out a location for a battery on the Racecrafters .
I intend on running a starter motor on this one so needed a 14amp battery that i could conceal in the space under under the seat hump.
An ebay search came up with a fazer 1000 agm which was the right dimensions to fit in the space between the tail and the frames cross brace and after a bit of headscratching a section of good old trusty ally road sign came to the rescue which i cobbled up and welded in to a tray for it.
The tray sits on the ally mudguard from the same source so rather than have rubber matting or foam stuck on the underneath to cushion it and battery foam on the inside for the battery to sit on i came up with the idea of swiss cheesing the base and fitting a bunch of rubber grommets to serve both purposes.
Another ebay search turned up these Suzuki GS125 side panel grommets which were a fiver for a set of 12 but only a tenner for 5 sets which was a no brainer and i now have more than enough left over to do a similar thing on the Turbo

The tray bolts on to the rear of the frame with two rubber mounts

And to finish it off i made a couple of stainless battery strap hooks which are secured using the tail piece mounting bolts.

Just got to find a discrete place to locate the starter solenoid and reg/rec and i think the frame is ready for powder coating