Z1000A project

[Johno23]

This was the cam chain adjuster on my engine.you guys know anything about these? Any good?, no good? Is it better to return to std one? Shouldn’t there be some sort of plastic/ rubber end piece that presses against the chain?

[FOZ1A]

That is how its supposed to be, dont go back to standard.

foz

[zed1015]

Manual tensioner, best thing you can have.
Can't back off under any circumstance.
It pushes against the tensioner roller, not direct on the chain.
Need to adjust carefully so as not to over tension the chain.
It's a simple procedure once you know how.
Best done with cam cover off on initial install.

[Johno23]

Thanks guys, yes I can see now in the manual how it works. I have a box of bits, with a fair few missing so I’m just going through it all, some of you would be horrified with some of what I’m finding! Looks like it’s going to be expensive, or at least more expensive than I thought, I suppose that’s always the way........Now, looking at the cam rollers and bits from Z power there is a huge price difference between the Original bits and pattern parts, are the original parts that much better?

[zed1015]

Buy the solid Liska type with no rubber components .
They don't wear out.
The only rubber parts you will have to buy is the roller that sits under the block ,the front guide and the six small damper blocks for the idler shafts..

[Mr Bump]

Buy the solid Liska type with no rubber components .
They don't wear out.
The only rubber parts you will have to buy is the roller that sits under the block ,the front guide and the six small damper blocks for the idler shafts..

If you can access a lathe or know a machinist that'll do stuff in the cheap, you can press the guts out of an oem one, keep the sprocket itself, then buy a new roller bearing from somewhere like Simply Bearings, then get an insert made that presses into the outer sprocket and the roller bearing presses into the inside = a solid roller for a lot less than a liska one. The flaking remains of the rubber damping can be machined off of the sprocket at the same time.


On the subject of rubber stuff that goes inside the Z engines, usually OEM parts are better if you can find them for sensible money, but I'm not so sure about rubbers that are constantly bathed in engine oil.

Reasons being that (a) the OEM parts may have sat on a shelf for 40 years and deteriorated due to UV exposure or similar, and (b) new parts made by manufacturer like PMC are more likely to be made of modern materials that are good with more modern semi-synth oils. Don't know if anyone else would agree??

Olly

[Johno23]

Guys, what’s the best way to sort this out?

[DavidZ1R]

I had the same on my z650, a local garage guy opened up the hanger from the back welded up a plate, filled the holes up, re weld a plate on the back, ground down, you would never know

[Johno23]

Looks good! I’ll hunt out a welder..........cheers.

[Mr Bump]

Might it be worth getting the whole thing sand blasted before you take it to the welder, just in case there's any more horrors?

Unlikely, but you'll be cussing if you have to take it back to the welder for a second go.

Olly

[Johno23]

Might it be worth getting the whole thing sand blasted before you take it to the welder, just in case there's any more horrors?

Unlikely, but you'll be cussing if you have to take it back to the welder for a second go.

Olly

Cheers, yes I might do that. Although it does look pretty solid everywhere else.

[Johno23]

Well, I found a welder who can do it so have now dropped frame off to him, should get it back end of next week with a bit of luck.then off for powder coating. Main stand isn’t looking too good................. or the tank!

[Johno23]

Another question for you guys( probably many more to come!)
I’m just going through everything from the broken down bike. The ignition on the bike was a Boyer, what do you guys think of these? Also I have no ignition advance unit on the bike as I believe the Boyer doesn’t need it. If I fit a Dyna ignition does that need the original adv unit to run the ignition, I’m sure I’ve seen one on a 900 with the unit still in place.

[Mr Bump]

No experience of boyer personally, but I don't think its popular on here. Dyna works very well, but the basic dyna system does need the advance mechanism. Z power were selling them new.

Dyna 2000 (?) Is a step up in functionality and has built in ignition advance curves so no mechanical advance required, but you've got to put a control box somewhere plus it's more expensive.

Olly

[Ultim8pc]

Another question for you guys( probably many more to come!)
I’m just going through everything from the broken down bike. The ignition on the bike was a Boyer, what do you guys think of these? Also I have no ignition advance unit on the bike as I believe the Boyer doesn’t need it. If I fit a Dyna ignition does that need the original adv unit to run the ignition, I’m sure I’ve seen one on a 900 with the unit still in place.

Dyna S just replaces the points and keeps the advancer.
The Dyna3/Pro/2000 replaces the advancer and does that electronically.
I have a very tidy, but working Dyna3 system for sale if you have interest.