Drain Pipe !

[gray]

don't leave it in there. (Assuming the engine isn't on the bench and can be turned upside down and shaken gently)-3 choices as I see it - first try and see it thru the various tunnels available to you - a strong torch and long surgical forceps will help - long Mayo's or Volsellum's would be best. this is the no cost option. Failing this remove the 2 centre pistons by removing 1 circlip on each. This will give a much better view. You'll need to buy 2 new circlips to reassemble. Failing this , drop the sump and fish it out from below. Can be done with the engine in the frame . Cost - 1 new sump gasket.

[z1bman]

just remove the sump it will be there & leave the sump of until you have got the top of the engine built

[1975-S1C]

Thanks Gray. The engine isn't out, just got the head and barrels off to replace oil leaks from head and base gaskets (like that when I got it). I just had another look from the top and no sign of it.
As I've got a new full gasket set I think it's going to be a sump off job as you and z1bman suggest and hopefully it'll show up down there.
I guess there's a slim chance it might pop out when I drain the oil down ? But we'll see.

Thanks for the help and advice chaps. Unfortunately I don't have anyone local (that I know of) to help me, so I'm kind of learning as I go with help from you guys. The advice alone is worth every penny to be a PUM and is much appreciated.
I will apologise in advance for any future dim questions on my part, of which I expect there will be a few !

Thanks again
Paul

[chrisu]

dropping the sump is easy and anything that has dropped down will be there. Its also a good idea as you can clean it out and also check the oil pickup isn't blocked (which i've seen before).

Fell free to ask especially when you are reassembling

[1975-S1C]

Thank you

[1975-S1C]

Bit of an update

Popped the oil drain plug, the little rubber block dropped right out. I was changing the oil and filter anyways, so happy days.

Pressed on this morning and I have to say I can highly recommend the wooden blocks / drain pipe collars & cable tie method for getting the pistons back in the barrels. It took so little effort, almost just the weight of the barrels did all the work !

Head is now stripped awaiting me figuring out how you replace the valve guides, which I'm sure I shall find on here somewhere or possibly YouTube.

[Wrigers]

Been following your post with interest, like you i am new to the Z engine and will be dismantling mine shortly. I hope to learn from your mistakes, don't mean that in a bad way of course.
keep up the good work.!!!!!!!!

[Pigford]

Been following your post with interest, like you i am new to the Z engine and will be dismantling mine shortly. I hope to learn from your mistakes, don't mean that in a bad way of course.
keep up the good work.!!!!!!!!

Just remember - when it's all back together - you will NOT get 2nd gear until engine is running and bike is moving!!! Have fun

[DavidZ1R]

Unless you are skilled at the valve guides, let a good tech guy do the work, the guy who I use and does z power's machining does not replace them, he relines the bores, he told me that he has had trouble in the past getting them to fit perfectly true.

[1975-S1C]

Thanks Wrigers, it's a different beastie to my little triple that's for sure !
Anyways, if you can benefit from my muppetlike mistakes I'm more than happy for that. Fortunately, the help you can get from the chaps on here is great though. One of the frustrations I have is that there had been an oil leak at the front of the engine for some time before I bought it and as a result everything is covered in baked on oily crap, it's taking hours to clean each bit up before I can reassemble anything. Anyways, pleased with progress today.

DavidZ1R, I was thinking along similar lines. Wish I knew of someone locally.

[Pigford]

One of the frustrations I have is that there had been an oil leak at the front of the engine for some time before I bought it and as a result everything is covered in baked on oily crap, it's taking hours to clean each bit up before I can reassemble anything. Anyways, pleased with progress today.

Most likely the cam chain tunnel O-ring - it's a common fail item.....

[1975-S1C]

Yep, spot on Pigford. The rubber had gone completely hard and flat and in fact it was so brittle it cracked in several places as I took it out. Same thing with the rubber o rings around the base of the bores. Also the head gaskets were pretty ropey too, they were all delaminated and carboned up.
Pleasing to see it coming together and all nice and clean.

I've bought one of those Delkevic stainless 4-1 pipes to go on it. I had a Piper on my Z650 when I was a lad and loved the look of it and the Delkevic looks similar. Anyone else tried one of these ? Hoping it sounds as good as it looks in the pictures !

[Pigford]

Just had to put a photo of my first Z900A4 - with a PIPER... I bought it for £60 brand new and promptly hacksawed the end off, flush to the mounting point!

Old0001.jpg (339.54 KiB) Viewed 5793 times

[1975-S1C]

That's pretty much the same length as the Delkevic.

I suspect that in the long run I'll probably end up putting 4-4 on it, but for now we are going for the throaty, p*** the neighbours off sound !

[chrisu]

Unless you are skilled at the valve guides, let a good tech guy do the work, the guy who I use and does z power's machining does not replace them, he relines the bores, he told me that he has had trouble in the past getting them to fit perfectly true.

Absolutely agree. I have rebuilt lots of Z engines but always get the head done by a specialist such as Buzzard.