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My Ultimate Zed
Moderators: chrisu, paul doran, Taffus, KeithZ1R
- Zomerset Zed
- 100Club
- Posts: 239
- Joined: 30th May 2014
- Location: Somerset
The best bit-the final build
I used the time tested method of laying the engine on its side and me and the mrs. lowered the frame over the motor and started installing all the engine mounting hardware:
Once in the frame i then put the cam cover on and installed the oil pump the sump pan including low profile APE drain plug and filter cover. Had some issues with the used cam end plugs which tended to creep outwards when torquing the cover down. After a bit of prating around, decided the best course of action was to buy some new ones, which stayed put a treat.
Then it was time to install the 1" offset sprocket, and bearing outrigger assembly including Oberon Ducati Panigale clutch master cylinder:
Starter motor also went in. Note i had to turn down the rear mounting post for the outrigger plate to clear the drive sprocket teeth
Rear peg brackets turned out ok too i think...
At this point i had a beer and stared at it for quite some time
Assembling the starter/gen:
Gen cover on:
I need to make a cover form aly sheet or maybe even carbon/kevlar sheet, otherwise the carbs and rear o engine are going to get splattered from the sprocket. Note case saver, a valuable lesson i have learnt from enduro :
Once in the frame i then put the cam cover on and installed the oil pump the sump pan including low profile APE drain plug and filter cover. Had some issues with the used cam end plugs which tended to creep outwards when torquing the cover down. After a bit of prating around, decided the best course of action was to buy some new ones, which stayed put a treat.
Then it was time to install the 1" offset sprocket, and bearing outrigger assembly including Oberon Ducati Panigale clutch master cylinder:
Starter motor also went in. Note i had to turn down the rear mounting post for the outrigger plate to clear the drive sprocket teeth
Rear peg brackets turned out ok too i think...
At this point i had a beer and stared at it for quite some time
Assembling the starter/gen:
Gen cover on:
I need to make a cover form aly sheet or maybe even carbon/kevlar sheet, otherwise the carbs and rear o engine are going to get splattered from the sprocket. Note case saver, a valuable lesson i have learnt from enduro :
- Ginger Bear
- Hardcore
- Posts: 5512
- Joined: 16th Dec 2008
- Location: In the Dark.
- Contact:
Re: My Ultimate Zed
Great, next year's stand is shaping up well. Look forward to seeing it it 'the flesh'.
- Zomerset Zed
- 100Club
- Posts: 239
- Joined: 30th May 2014
- Location: Somerset
Continuing final build
Got some M8 304 SS exhaust studs from Legend and fitted them with Loctite stud locking compound:
Also mounted the oil cooler. I had the brackets black anodized. Thanks Mikey
I had pre-made the oil cooler pipes with the cooler end fittings and roughly cut to length 11mm SS reinforced nylon braided rubber pipe:
The final terminated version:
I decided the best way to proceed would be buying an APE low profile engine breather cover which does away with the oil trap gubbins and cover with just a 1/4" BSP fitting whci i mated to a AN8 swage fitting.
I wanted to get the pipes as invisible as possible and to run the line of the frame fitting in the recesses between the upper frame rails:
Engine breather pipe will run the same line as the oil pipes and terminate under the plate braces with an industrial pneumatic silencer. I've used these many times for breather filtration and they seem to work quite well and are about £6.
Note electrical box base loosely in position with some of the cables from the engine routed through grommets.
At this point i tried the coils in place:
The only way i could get these to fit in the space with the terminals i had was to face the angled HT terminals to the rear for 2/3 and to the front for 1/4. Even then its a very tight squeeze. Amazing that i hadn't sorted this earlier
Time to put the swingarm in, then the shocks:
Also mounted the oil cooler. I had the brackets black anodized. Thanks Mikey
I had pre-made the oil cooler pipes with the cooler end fittings and roughly cut to length 11mm SS reinforced nylon braided rubber pipe:
The final terminated version:
I decided the best way to proceed would be buying an APE low profile engine breather cover which does away with the oil trap gubbins and cover with just a 1/4" BSP fitting whci i mated to a AN8 swage fitting.
I wanted to get the pipes as invisible as possible and to run the line of the frame fitting in the recesses between the upper frame rails:
Engine breather pipe will run the same line as the oil pipes and terminate under the plate braces with an industrial pneumatic silencer. I've used these many times for breather filtration and they seem to work quite well and are about £6.
Note electrical box base loosely in position with some of the cables from the engine routed through grommets.
At this point i tried the coils in place:
The only way i could get these to fit in the space with the terminals i had was to face the angled HT terminals to the rear for 2/3 and to the front for 1/4. Even then its a very tight squeeze. Amazing that i hadn't sorted this earlier
Time to put the swingarm in, then the shocks:
- Zomerset Zed
- 100Club
- Posts: 239
- Joined: 30th May 2014
- Location: Somerset
Front end on
So after a problem free final build up till now, i sling the pre-assembled front forks, yokes etc. into the frame and 1st problem shows up straight away:
I had extended the lock-stop bracket welded to the frame so the vertical lock-stops on the R6 bottom yoke touched with about 3mm between the headlight brackets and the tank. Only at this point i have noticed that the extension is missing and it also looks like "someone" has sanded the existing plate and chamfered it at each corner prior to paint
Have i have senior moment!!??
So i check all the pictures i have on laptop and phone but can't find any pictures of the extension i butt welded top and bottom to the existing plate. Have i had a stroke
Now my welding isn't fantastic, but i use the tried and tested method of checking my welds with a good tap of the hammer. I can only summize that the frame has been dropped at the painters and "someone" has tidied the plate up without noticing the extension has flown off underneath the biscuit tin.
This sets me back. You may have already noticed the drilled hole through the R6 yoke lock-stops and this is my temporary solution:
This is Sammi, not my dog but belongs to a mate of mine called Matt. I was looking after Sammi for a while while Matt was in a coma after a head on with a epileptic woman who was unconscious at the time and on the wrong side of the road.
Sammi is obviously not impressed by my modification at all
I wasn't intending to keep the R6 bottom yoke anyway and i now have one being CNC machined which will be getting anodised black. It will have eccentrically adjustable lock-stops, so i can get the lock even both sides (theoretically). These are easily obtainable from engineering suppliers:
I had extended the lock-stop bracket welded to the frame so the vertical lock-stops on the R6 bottom yoke touched with about 3mm between the headlight brackets and the tank. Only at this point i have noticed that the extension is missing and it also looks like "someone" has sanded the existing plate and chamfered it at each corner prior to paint
Have i have senior moment!!??
So i check all the pictures i have on laptop and phone but can't find any pictures of the extension i butt welded top and bottom to the existing plate. Have i had a stroke
Now my welding isn't fantastic, but i use the tried and tested method of checking my welds with a good tap of the hammer. I can only summize that the frame has been dropped at the painters and "someone" has tidied the plate up without noticing the extension has flown off underneath the biscuit tin.
This sets me back. You may have already noticed the drilled hole through the R6 yoke lock-stops and this is my temporary solution:
This is Sammi, not my dog but belongs to a mate of mine called Matt. I was looking after Sammi for a while while Matt was in a coma after a head on with a epileptic woman who was unconscious at the time and on the wrong side of the road.
Sammi is obviously not impressed by my modification at all
I wasn't intending to keep the R6 bottom yoke anyway and i now have one being CNC machined which will be getting anodised black. It will have eccentrically adjustable lock-stops, so i can get the lock even both sides (theoretically). These are easily obtainable from engineering suppliers:
Last edited by Zomerset Zed on Thu Nov 23, 2017 11:25 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Re: My Ultimate Zed
Hi Zomerset Zed
it looks like your dog is very sad about the fact that the world is turning around and that you had to find a temporary solution... give him a biscuit to cheer him up, the poor lad!
Oh BTW , good solution, it gives you time to find a permanent one.
Cheers
Philippe
it looks like your dog is very sad about the fact that the world is turning around and that you had to find a temporary solution... give him a biscuit to cheer him up, the poor lad!
Oh BTW , good solution, it gives you time to find a permanent one.
Cheers
Philippe
the differences between a little boy and an adult man is the price and size of their toys!
- Ginger Bear
- Hardcore
- Posts: 5512
- Joined: 16th Dec 2008
- Location: In the Dark.
- Contact:
Re: My Ultimate Zed
Eccentric adjusters are a good solution I guess you could also bolt an extension stop (plate) to the one already fitted to the frame.
Re: My Ultimate Zed
Are you fitting individual air filters or will the oil cooler lines go between the airbox rubbers ?
- Zomerset Zed
- 100Club
- Posts: 239
- Joined: 30th May 2014
- Location: Somerset
Re: My Ultimate Zed
Eccentric adjusters are a good solution I guess you could also bolt an extension stop (plate) to the one already fitted to the frame.
Yes GB, it was considered and i did this on my ZRX fitting a ZX12R front end. It always looked a bit like an "after-thought" but was hidden well by the fairing. On this bike it is very visible so wanted it to look proper.
Also, always intended to use another yoke as i did a rough job of the paint (rattle can) and i wanted to ride it first before i settled on fork length (extenders) and the look to match the top yoke. Watch this space.
- Zomerset Zed
- 100Club
- Posts: 239
- Joined: 30th May 2014
- Location: Somerset
Re: My Ultimate Zed
Are you fitting individual air filters or will the oil cooler lines go between the airbox rubbers ?
Pod filters. Currently battling with setting up the carbs esp. just off idle transition from pilot to needle.
Anyone got and carb set up advice for pod filters??
- Zomerset Zed
- 100Club
- Posts: 239
- Joined: 30th May 2014
- Location: Somerset
Re: My Ultimate Zed
Excellent work cannot wait to see this finished in the flesh.
Cheers Padders, and everyone else that has commented
Re: My Ultimate Zed
Your bike is coming along nicely, does anyone know how I can see the rest of the pics of this build.
- Ginger Bear
- Hardcore
- Posts: 5512
- Joined: 16th Dec 2008
- Location: In the Dark.
- Contact:
Re: My Ultimate Zed
slappa13 wrote:Your bike is coming along nicely, does anyone know how I can see the rest of the pics of this build.
Pay attention
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=41766
- Zomerset Zed
- 100Club
- Posts: 239
- Joined: 30th May 2014
- Location: Somerset
Re: My Ultimate Zed
You can see from the last picture i posted that i slung the rear wheel in, including the rear caliper and hanger and torque arm:
What you don't see here and what i haven't posted yet is the lengths i have gone to to get the caliper to fit the rear wheel without fouling the wheel hub. More of this saga later.
Started building up the electrical box now all nicely powder coated in satin black. I am using a LiOn battery, an led specific indicator relay (vehicle wiring products), a ZX750 starter relay (have used these before on a few projects and they never let you down) a ZX6 fuse box that i am using only 3 fuses on at the moment so i have plenty of room to drive other electronic components. Also have an Electrex reg/rec unit to go with the Electrex generator already fitted. We have a had some issues on the Phase 1 race bikes when they used to run generators with inadequate clearance between the ID of the gen and the OD of the rotor. This one seems to have enough clearance. But i will check it hot when running.
Also wired up the Elektronik Sachse ignition module. Again we use these on Phase1 bikes and they are very reliable with 9 ignition maps and a great test function which allows you to fire all plugs continuously so you can check for issues. Couldnt be easier to set up either. Just get at TDC on 1/4 loosen the trigger rotor and turn clockwise until the LED light goes out, then tighten the rotor up. Job done
If you want to mess with the overall timing you just put a degree disc on the rotor and turn the rotor the respective amount of advance/retard you want to try. But really this is what the maps are for.
Put he front wheel in including the RC30 front muddy on my own brackets:
Here's another look at that rear
What you don't see here and what i haven't posted yet is the lengths i have gone to to get the caliper to fit the rear wheel without fouling the wheel hub. More of this saga later.
Started building up the electrical box now all nicely powder coated in satin black. I am using a LiOn battery, an led specific indicator relay (vehicle wiring products), a ZX750 starter relay (have used these before on a few projects and they never let you down) a ZX6 fuse box that i am using only 3 fuses on at the moment so i have plenty of room to drive other electronic components. Also have an Electrex reg/rec unit to go with the Electrex generator already fitted. We have a had some issues on the Phase 1 race bikes when they used to run generators with inadequate clearance between the ID of the gen and the OD of the rotor. This one seems to have enough clearance. But i will check it hot when running.
Also wired up the Elektronik Sachse ignition module. Again we use these on Phase1 bikes and they are very reliable with 9 ignition maps and a great test function which allows you to fire all plugs continuously so you can check for issues. Couldnt be easier to set up either. Just get at TDC on 1/4 loosen the trigger rotor and turn clockwise until the LED light goes out, then tighten the rotor up. Job done
If you want to mess with the overall timing you just put a degree disc on the rotor and turn the rotor the respective amount of advance/retard you want to try. But really this is what the maps are for.
Put he front wheel in including the RC30 front muddy on my own brackets:
Here's another look at that rear
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