Z1B Restoration

[Ratty]

Keep it up Philippe, very inspirational and as soon as I have finished 1001 other jobs I need to get on with my Z1b

[Gonzo]

Yes, very inspirational Philippe and I'm looking forward to seeing the engine parts polished too.

[Philippe]

Hi guys
as promised some pictures of the polished engine parts.
During the last weeks I've been degreasing and cleaning the engine covers. I'm always stunned about the amount of dirt and grease that accumulates during the years.
As you know I use cellulose thinner to degrease the parts. After that I start with removing the old clear coat and the corrosion off the alloy. Decade old scratches become clearly visible and have to be removed.
As usual I use wet and dry sanding paper, starting with coarse and ending with fine. In the end I polish the alloy parts using different waxes.
It's sometimes a time consuming work but in the end I get this.

As you can see the alternator cover and the points cover are painted with black heat resistant paint, developed for alloys.

Before painting they are degreased again with aceton. The waxes leave a grease film on the parts and paint doesn't stick to grease so...
The oil glass in the clutch cover is protected with adhesive tape before putting a layer of clear coat on it.

When all the parts are ready, I put a clear coat on them. It's a clear coat developed for use on light alloys, it's a French brand and I'm very pleased with it. I've used it several times in the past and it stays on! The alloy doesn't start to oxidate again.

This is the result after 30 minutes. All the alloy engine covers , the fork stanchons and the rear hub are protected.

When the clear coat has set after a few days I bake the parts in an old domestic kitchen oven.
They have to bake for a while and the clear coat becomes sticky. When the parts cool down the clear coat is resistant to oil and fuel.

I allso prepared the fuel tank to be sprayed. I gave it a white base coat and two broad black lines as a Z1B tank should have.

Now I'm waiting for the blue paint to arrive. It will be water based paint, it's the first time I'm going use that kind of paint... wait and see.
See you next time.
GrtZ
Philippe

[deka]

Slow down philippe. Your putting me to shame Top work

[Philippe]

Sorry Derek
didn't want to harm you! Just trying to get paintwork done before the temperature is getting too low.
GrtZ
Philippe

[Philippe]

Hi men
a quick update!
The blue paint isn't water based after all. My paint supplier was able to get it on thinner base. Good for me as I have no experience in spraying water based paints.

This was the result after the first attempt, the fuel tank with the black paint recieved a coat of clear coat. After it dried, the black stripe was mesured, a little sanding with wet ot dry n° 1000, taped off and the blue paint was sprayed.
Immediately after the paint had set I removed the tape and... oooohhhh I made a mistake in measuring the thickness of the black paint stripe. S**T happens.
I waited a few days untill the blue paint hardened completely and started the measurements all over. A thin tape was added, the blue paint was sanded off so that the black paint underneath appeared again.
I decided to give the whole fuel tank and the tail piece an extra coat of varnish...
Something went wrong...the clear coat became white!!! S**T happened again. I know nothing about chemistry so I had to sand the fuel tank and the tail piece again.
The results were a disaster...I had to respray a part of the fuel tank with the blue paint and the tail piece completely. A major setback. But that's life.
Yesterday I decided to use a different clearcoat...
There was a good temperature but there was a bit too much wind. Anyway a clear coat was applied...
Bad idea, very bad idea. Due to the wind there must have been dust and silicones in the air .
And yes, all over the freshly sprayed clear coat there were "little silicon eyes" OMG I was pissed off.
This morning: sanding with sandpaper n° 1500, n° 2000 , degreasing, cleaning with a tack cloth and a respray with clear coat.
Finally success! Haleluya!
Just see for yourself, I'm rather satisfied about the result.

When this coat has set completely, the transfers will be applied.
More news about the results within a few days.
Tada
Philippe

[hartyb]

fantastic work Philippe

many would have give up after so many set backs, it just shows that persistence pays of in the end

keep up the good work

greetings Bruce

[deka]

Brill work Phiippe and have had the pleasure of meeting you and christine (and having a fab lunch) i know that you would just go back to the beginning and start again.. much more paitence than i could ever have

[Philippe]

Hi guys
thanks for the compliments!
More (hopefully good) news tomorrow afternoon/evening.
GrtZ
Philippe

[Philippe]

Hello men
I'm back and this time with good news!
The decals are on the bodywork and I'm satisfied with the results.
It was the most difficult task I did in applying decals on fuel tanks ever. If you have no experience in applying decals, don't start with the Z1B decals!

When applying decals you need some simple tools:

the tools

a pair of scisors, a measuring instrument, fine adhesive tape, a piece of rubber, paper towels, a spray bottle with water and a drop of dishwashing soap, a hobby knife with a rasorsharp blade and a lot of luck!
Start with determining where which decal must come and cut out the decal from the sheet.
Remove the protection paper from the underside of the decal so that the glued side is free. Don't remove the protective film!
Moisture the body part and apply the decal. If it's not in the correct position don't panic, the water allows you to remove the decal and reposition it.
When it's at the correct place, start putting pressure on it by hand at one side. Slowly work to the other side. Push the water away from underneath the decal to the sides of it. When it starts to adhere, take the piece of rubber and put some more pressure on the decal, again work from the centre to the sides.
Start removing the protective film, do it slowly and follow with one hand to prevent the decal to lift.
Finally take a paper towel and dry the decal.
It takes a lot of practice, time and effort but in the end you'll be pleased with the results.
Remember that you have to put a 2 dimensional decal on a 3 dimensional surface.
See for yourself:

the tail piece

I'm a lucky bastard because I could use original Z1B parts from a friend in France to compare.

the real thing!

The original tail piece I could use is a red one but the colours of the decals are the same.

the lower lines in place

You have to start somewhere, I decided to start at the bottom...

and the upper lines in place

and to work my way up.

the top view

The most difficult part for me is to get a more or less symmetrical result.
Measuring doesn't work for me, remember the black stripe in the previous post...I have to do it "on sight".

the other "real thing"

Compared with the original fuel tank, I'm satisfied with the result.

decal job done

The parts are waiting now, they must dry completely and that could take a few days.
The final step is to put a protective clear coat on it.
Hope and pray with me that it will turn out correctly in the end.
GrtZ
Philippe

[damien.wrl]

When do I drop my bike around for a freshen up ??

[Philippe]

Hi Damien
that depends on what you mean with a "freshen up"...it could take a few years, I have some other bikes to restore . Would january 2027 be convenient?
Only joking ! Remember it's not my job, it's a hobby!
GrtZ
Philippe

[damien.wrl]

2027 would be fine , I might be a bit old by then but fine ..That’s why it would be special .... you always wonder how it will be when you drop it at a garage, you drop it off knowing they have time limits, you hope it comes back ok.... dropping it at yours would be a happier experience , you know eventually it would come out lovingly done, not commercially

And did the inside of the tank need prep?

[Philippe]

Hi Damien
in a garage they have to think commercially, it's their way to make a living.
I did a full restoration of a '73 Z1 once for a gargekeeper as I would have done it for myself and it left a bitter taste. I had to wait for my money and afterwards I heard nothing from him anymore... So I decided to do only restorations for myself.
As you say, it's done with love!
And no, the inside of the fuel tank didn't need any preparation, lucky me! If it needed to be prepared it would have been done before the painting in order to avoid damage to the paintwork.
GrtZ
Philippe

[Gonzo]

Very patient work with the paint-job Phillippe and i'm sure it will finnish the bike off just lovely.