Z1-B resurrection after 43 years

[Bill P]

Sounds a total pain in the arse Dyna S ignition every time for me i fit on all my bikes and its
a very quick fit to, also no box to fit somewhere unlike Boyer.

[ADRIAN H]

Dyna S fit it and forget it

[chrisNI]

+1 Dyna

[z2.john]

Dyna S fit it and forget it

Word of caution with Dyna. Don't totally forget it. They don't like knackered batteries. I've had 2 fail on me. The first was a 2/3 cylinder lack of spark. The unit was sent to Dyna for check and found to be faulty but was just outside warranty so not replaced (did give me a 50% discount though on a new one). The second one caught fire! Was riding along and smelled, then saw smoke pouring out of the points cover. Totally trashed the unit and was lucky not to set the bike on fire. This was my 'rat' bike so wasn't running it with a particularly fresh battery. Found out later other folk with poor batteries have had dyna issues.
so.......KEEP THE BATTERY IN GOOD NICK

[steve452]

I have an Optimate 4 which I have to attach to my Ninja H2 otherwise the tracker drains the battery. I can leave it for up to two days without issue so can maintain the Z1 battery whilst it's in the garage. The battery for the Z1 is an AGM YUASA YTX14AHL-BS (12.6Ah/210CCA) which I believe is a decent piece of kit for this bike so should last a while. I also have a cheaper battery which I use for test starts and timing etc so as not to bugger up the YUASA. Considering the cost of the Dyna S from Z-Power I was thinking about swapping out my original separate reg and rec which I re-fitted in order to maintain originality for a modern combined reg/rec. Are the Z-Power ones OK?

[wheelysteve]

Got a Z Power reg/rec on my Z1B and I've had no issues. Plug and play so a quick job to switch over.

Steve

[steve452]

Cheers for the quick reply Steve. I shall, indeed, go the Z-power route.

[steve452]

At the risk of repeating myself, and also boring anyone who already read my previous post, how much of the top end does one have to strip to safely get the engine out of the frame. If at all possible I do not want to have to remove the block again. Any help very greatly appreciated.

[Bill P]

In my experience it will come out relatively easily with the head removed

[steve452]

That's what I was worried about, as I installed it in the frame with only the bottom end built. Is there any easy way to secure the block against the top crankcase half to stop it sliding off when I invert it?

[moizeau]

You could use a couple of plastic tubes cut down to act as spacers (electrical conduit for example) lightly tightened.

[steve452]

I'm guessing you mean cut them to length so I can lightly screw down a couple of head nuts onto them?

Brilliant idea. The inventiveness of people in this place never ceases to amaze me.

Many thanks young man

[zed1015]

The engine will come out in one piece.
Pulling the sump, oil pump , cam cover, top idler gives more clearance.
Before you go any further you can see the inside end of the kickstart mech by pulling the sump to see what's going on.
It's a simple device and not much can go wrong.
Unless there's something unusual or assembled wrong the non return is due the return spring engaged incorrectly or broken.
The clicking is the two halves of the pawl not disengaging fully , again due to a broken return spring or a fault with the pawl ramp bolted to the upper case that holds the splined half of the pawl away from the gear and there's also the possibility that the lug on the splined half that engages on the ramp is broken.
Non engagement of the kicker would be down to a broken pawl spring but this would not affect the return action of the lever.

[steve452]

Many thanks Rob. I'll see if I can go that route, but I suspect something has bent/broken somewhere. I've not removed the KS external cover yet so haven't examined the return spring (which was new) but I'm guessing that it may be broken or bent. What caused it is probably whatever's going on further inboard on the shaft so I suspect the mill will have to come out anyway.

I hate having to do the same thing twice, unless it involves a woman.

[MrDavo]

My Z1A engine went in in one piece, so yours will come out. The only significant thing not fitted was the oil filter. I don't know for sure but I don't see why you wont be able to get at what you need to by just turning it upside down and splitting the cases, without disturbing the top end at all. If not someone will be along soon to call me an idiot.

Totally different bike, but when I rebuilt my CL450 barn find, I had exactly the same sort of sh*tf*ckery with the kickstart. That was as simple as the fact that I should have turned the shaft to preload it before fitting the kickstart spring into the hole for it in the shaft. Nothing was broken or bent, it just needed doing right, and its now perfect. The upside with that bike was that the engine didn't have to come out again, I just had to take the primary drive off to get at it.