Genuine versus replica fenders/mudguards?

[Highlandzed]

Hi all
The mudguards on my kz are in reasonable condition but with pitting and look like they have been over cleaned. The chrome is dull.
I’m considering 3 options-
Rechrome
New genuine £500
New replica £300

Is there a way of telling if my mudguards are genuine and therefore worth rechroming?
Any views on the quality of genuine versus replica from the likes of Zed power?
Zed power seem to have genuine fronts but not rears
CMSNL have both genuine
How does genuine versus replica affect value.....although I don’t ever anticipate selling the bike.
Thanks
Pablo

[wheelysteve]

My observations on this:

The new genuine ones are not quite the same as the original ones, especially the front. The rolled edges seem to be smaller on the new gen ones I bought.

The replica ones are very good and I would say as good as the new gen items. However, my bikes don't see the rain ! I do seal the inside surfaces as they all start to corrode quite quickly.

If your originals are undented, I would get a quote to rechrome them.

[Garry.L]

As above. The first Reps were pretty poor, little more than thick tin foil, but later one's are excellent.

As for affecting value I'd be surprised if most people could tell. I've sold a few classic Zeds and it still amazes me how little people know about a bike they seem quite happy to hand over £10K+ for. It's perhaps a case of balancing re-chroming costs against replacement cost.

Also, if your really going down the original route you might want to change that rear light as well .

[chrisNI]

I’m fairly sure there were never replicas of the long UK guards so a long one is probably always genuine. I stand to be corrected

Also, if your really going down the original route you might want to change that rear light as well .

The oval light is much better looking than the square abomination but looks even better with the early style kicked up tailpiece which is also better looking plus it incorporates a reflector. Correcting Kawasaki’s mistakes

[Highlandzed]

Yes I thought the tail light isn’t correct but looks fine.
Are the guards on it short?
Will get the guards off in the winter I think and assess the cost/ viability of rechroming.
Any recommendations for chroming ? I’m in Inverness so would need to post them.
Thanks
Pablo

[Garry.L]

Yes I thought the tail light isn’t correct but looks fine.
Are the guards on it short?
Will get the guards off in the winter I think and assess the cost/ viability of rechroming.
Any recommendations for chroming ? I’m in Inverness so would need to post them.
Thanks
Pablo

Euro/UK models had a longer rear mudguard than the US market one's (your is the shorter US one).

If you're not going down the 100% correct & original route then just fit pattern one's as the cost of re-chroming won't be far off that anyway.

[Jerry]

They look good enough to rechrome. You’ve probably got someone local, but if it’s any help I can recommend Star Polishing in Wolverhampton, good prices and quick turn around.

[pertonpc]

Dave Marsden (expert) told me that front is best genuine but that the repro rear is plenty good enough.
That's what I went with on my Z1-B
Cheers
From Mark

[bedlow1]

Agree with jerry that mudguard looks fine to chrome

[Highlandzed]

Thanks for all the advice.
Pablo

[Mr Bump]

Bought both front and rear from z power a couple of years ago:

Front is almost indistinguishable - I think there's one less spot weld underneath and that's it. It was cheaper than rechroming the old one.

When I pulled the rear off it turned out to be a bit rotten on a hidden area where it rests against a couple of rubber bits. You might find the same. The repro (short type, the bikes Italian) was good. The metal tabs that fold over to secure the loom are a bit different (more complex shape on the genuine with over moulded plastic not a bit of heat shrink). Otherwise good.

Both good quality. When I built the bike I painted some acf 50 onto the hidden folds, joints etc underneath both guards to prevent rust.

I'm quite happy with the repros on a bike that gets used.

Olly

[pertonpc]

I paint waxoyl underseal under my fronts cos it can't be seen once bike is together.
Rear needs to be wiped over with wd40 rag after a wash cos it shows out more.