cam timing....

[zed1015]

Inlet and exhaust both 0.10 to 0.15mm.
Aim for the higher figure and it won't do any harm if you land at 0.16 - 0.17mm if that's where the shims take you.
Better that than 0.11 /0.12.

[kev edwards]

Thanks for all the info guys, I will digest it all.....this Owners Club is far better than any manual!!
I've taken a photo of the cam position on no.4...no1 is obviously the opposite way round.
It seems to be set correctly, I just wanted to make sure it was right as the bike has an unknown history......considering some of the bodges on it!!
20210616_134636.jpg

Pete

Those bolts don't look right, look like they have been replaced and may not be the right grade of material for the job.

[Peteypops23]

Inlet and exhaust both 0.10 to 0.15mm.
Aim for the higher figure and it won't do any harm if you land at 0.16 - 0.17mm if that's where the shims take you.
Better that than 0.11 /0.12.

Cool....thanks for that.
Pete

[Peteypops23]

Kev....is that the bolts on the sprockets you mean?
I'll check them against the z1r tomorrow.
Pete

[kev edwards]

Kev....is that the bolts on the sprockets you mean?
I'll check them against the z1r tomorrow.
Pete

Yes, just looked in my factory manual and they look the same, the ones in my thou are dark coloured.

[steve452]

You've probably sorted this by now but just in case the mark you're looking for on the exhaust cam is on the LHS of the sprocket with the cam in situ and is the tiny mark arrowed in the pic. I had the same problem when I came to do my cam timing. IIRC the both the inlet and exhaust lobes on cyl #4 point directly toward each other when the cams are in the correct position.

The lighter straight line just to the left of the mark is my marker so I could check it was lined up.

[Peteypops23]

Thanks Steve....certainly need the good glasses on to see the marks!!

So, the cams are set up correct now and I've just checked the valve shim clearances.
Taken with the respective lobes 180 degrees to the valve stem.....oh dear...all inlet gaps are 0.05mm and all exhaust are 0.12mm.
I assume I have some work to do now?
I know the engine runs now so, before I start removing and replacing shims, would it be advisable to tear down the top end to check valves and seats??
Awaiting advice with anticipation.

Pete

[steve452]

Glad to help. I'll leave your question re stripping the head to be answered by the great and good on this forum, who have far more skill and knowledge than myself in these matters.

Good luck.

[kev edwards]

If it runs well and no leaks do the shims and use the bike, as the saying goes if it ain't broke don't fix it.

[Peteypops23]

Sounds like a plan Kev.....
Cheers
Pete.

[Peteypops23]

Well, got back to this after a loooong time....work, more work, z900, work etc etc...
Anyway, everything set up as in previous photos, Tdc on 1&4, cam lobes pointing toward each other, Mark on exhaust sprocket aligned with top of head, 28 pins from the pin above. All seems good.
Carbs ultrasoniced , cleaned jets and bench set.
Sparks from Dyna coils.
Clean fuel from remote source.
Carb bowls full, no leaks or overflows.
Ignition on,
Clutch in,
Press starter,
Engine turns over........and that's it! Nowt, not a thing.
Bit of easy start down carb mouths, try again.......chuff out of carbs and exhaust but still not firing!
Changed coils for set of Andrews...got spark but still won't fire.....
Sorry for the long preamble but can anyone see what I'm doing wrong?
Dyna5 ignition has not been removed as bike was running before, but chucking oil out of the exhaust.
Any help or abuse greatly appreciated.
Pete

[Al]

Have you taken the centre rotor out of the DYNA 'S' at any point and if so did it go back in the same orientation?
Plugs out, all laid on head, ignition on, turn over by hand, confirm spark on #4 at,.. or close to the 'F' mark for 1/4
AL

[Peteypops23]

Cheers Al,
I haven't moved or removed the rotor or the pickups. Left them well alone!
I will carry out the check you've suggested this afternoon and post the result, thanks.

Just to make sure the dyna wiring is correct.......the black wire with a green sleeve from the pickups goes to the Green wire on the right coil. The white wire with the black sleeve goes to the Black wire from the left coil. The red wire then is spliced into the yellow/red common coil wire......?

Cheers,
Pete

[Peteypops23]

Ive done what you suggested Al, thank you please ignore my last bit about the wires......was getting a spark on #4 at the firing point of 2&3.......swapped wires around, don't know why they've got the little extra colours on them? And now firing on #1 and #4 almost spot on the firing mark!!

Cheers Al, thanks for that!
Jeez, I feel bloody stupid
Pete

[Al]

Nothing stupid about that. The wires were the right way round, its the rotor that was 180 degrees out.
Might pay you to do the same check for 2 and 3 as there's no guarantee the pickups are diametrically opposite each other. It might also be useful to put a strobe on it as well. With full battery voltage at revs the pickups can fire on the approach of the magnet in the rotor and statically or with low battery voltage the pickups can fire as the magnet passes making the trigger point uncertain. The only way to be sure is to do it at running speed.

AL