Gpz 1100 flywheel puller

[stusco]

Do i need a special puller ? Or will a m18x1.5 bolt type do the job ,the manual says screw the puller into the crank if so will i need to buy a genuine part ?

[moizeau]

I used a m18x1.5mm good quality bolt from an agricultural spares shop. You could chuck a ball bearing up the hole first to reduce friction and obviously a good flywheel holder. They are tight but just keep winding.

[Al]

You will need a correct rotor holder or a suitable equivalent that fits this specific application as the damage caused by any other means will be expensive and instantly regrettable.
You cant use a ratchet strap or strap wrench to hold the rotor as it will bend the drum and release the magnets. You also cant slide hammer the rotor off the crank as it will break the crankcases inside where the knock pins are.
Rear wheel spindle has the correct thread but its a bit un-weildy to tighten it up being so long.
The centre fixing bolt is 116lbs/ft and it needs to be that and you cant achieve this without holding the rotor properly whilst tightening it.
You may be lucky and find the rotor is loose but you still need to put it back on.
If the rotor is loose it may have 'galled' the rotor taper in which case it will need slight lapping back on again.
Here is an alternative to the factory rotor holder tool if you have access to workshop facilities etc.
Again, if you do 'make' something it needs to have the correct depth to the 'pins' or they will dislodge the magnets!!!!!!

IMG_0530rotor holder.JPG (150.5 KiB) Viewed 3107 times

AL

[stusco]

Ive got all the special tool/ pullers and still the flywheel won’t budge !!
I take it i can remove the crank with the flywheel connected and there’s no bolts hiding behind the starter gear.?

[zed1015]

I take it i can remove the crank with the flywheel connected .?

Yes !

[stusco]

Ok so im still unable to get my flywheel off , I still have a longer lever at my disposal i have a 4’ torque wrench ! From my MOD days ,would this be too much ? How far can i go before i start breaking stuff that can’t be replaced, the crank is going for welding maybe they can get it off

[warren3200gt]

The easy way to do it on a 650 and maybe the same for yours is to screw the rear axel into the thread until it against the crank shaft then give the axel end a wack with a hammer and it just breaks the taper seal.

[stusco]

Thanks for the reply but that’s not working on this one ive tried some heat even used a freeze kit from the crank side with heat and a whack with a hammer and it’s still stuck,im using a 2’ torque bar on the puller so it’s pretty tight they usually come off with my impact gun

[Al]

Do not hammer anything. It will / may hurt the magnetism or if the crank is in the cases, crack the main bearing seat and rip out the knock pins.
If its that hard it must be on with permanent bearing fit. 601 for example or similar is at 25% of full strength from the data sheet at 150 deg. C but at that temp you will destroy the resin and release the magnets though you can araldite them back in!!
There is also a rubber damper behind which will be destroyed by that much heat. It says 250 deg. C to release!!!!
It is not entirely resistant to acetone (nail varnish remover) so perhaps stand the crank upright (rotor uppermost) and fill the hole with acetone. Put the extractor in and torque to 100 - 150 ft/lbs and leave for a couple of days.
If it doesnt work its cost you nothing and no damage done.
I have not had to do this but they can be a sod to get off even without the bearing fit.

https://www.bearingboys.co.uk/uploads/6 ... hnical.pdf

AL

[stusco]

Cheers ill get some acetone the wife just stole my last bottle for her nails

[stusco]

Got the flywheel off I actually think the acetone worked but i did use a borrowed milliwaki impact gun but i did come off easily,thats the good news the bad news is the taper is scrap

[stusco]

Does anyone know if this flywheel is any good for an 83 gpz1100 a1 the picture shows a keyway where as mine is keyless
https://www.electrexworld.co.uk/cgi-bin ... ml#SID=659

[Al]

I have been told (so not me then) that at 116 ft/lbs you cant achieve taper lock and it just splits the rotor core along the key way.
There are many people ''re-selling'' these on ebay etc and for the purpose that brought them to your attention, but in common with a number of other Electrex product, they are not necessarily suited for the applications listed.
I cant be any more diplomatic than that.

AL

[stusco]

I catch your drift
I need to find one mine is beyond lapping in, is there any aftermarket generator kit ? The crank is going to grumpy 1260 for refurb so that should sort that taper

[Al]

That crank taper looks pretty good really. I wouldnt be surpried if it cleaned up by lapping on another std rotor without any machining.

There are aftermarket race kits. Ahhhem.
viewtopic.php?f=55&t=41306

I have been told that you may be able to use a ZX6 or ZX636 rotor but i cant coment as i have never done it.

I did have a near mint std rotor in the shed i can check if you like but it would be megga money .

AL