Cable tie method for changing shims?

[moizeau]

Just came across an old post on KZR about changing shims using a cable tie. Beefy cable tie bent in half and crimped with pliers then put a bend in the doubled over end. Open the valve and having removed the spark plug slide the 'special tool' between the open valve and the seat via the spark plug hole, reverse the crank and lift out the shim?
Anyone tried this or is it better to buy the real tool which varies between €30 to €100 depending on who makes it?

[zapo]

[KeithZ1R]

Voila fais-en toi meme

Shimtooldims.jpg (94.16 KiB) Viewed 446 times

DSCF5212.jpg (56.75 KiB) Viewed 441 times

[Simonic]

https://www.z-power.co.uk/valve-shimmin ... ginal-type

[KevH]

My dad made me this one in 1979 for my A2 and I am still using it on my J2. My local kawasaki dealer loaned me one and dad took it to work without telling me and came home with 2.

[gray]

Buy one it'll pay for itself the first time you use it.
Any method that holds a valve open and then you rotate the crank risks another valve opening and hitting the open one - potentially bending both.
The Kawasaki tool , once in place, will not let the cam ( and hence the crank) from going round too far.

[moizeau]

I agree, the ideal solution is to get the official tool. I've been trawling the web looking for posts on the cable tie method (zip tie really as they're American), of which there are quite a few and a youtube, trying to find a post that said don't do it because.... I can't. There seems to be 2 risks. Shearing the cable tie so some stays in the cylinder. This is why it's doubled over, the valve would have to shear through both parts in order to not be able to retrieve it all. Bending a valve. I can't see that happening as there is no impact force. I may be completely wrong on both of those thoughts.
Zapo, apart from the 2 above potential issues what else could go wrong?
Keith, thanks for the eng drawing, nice and detailed.
Kev, nice dad
Gray, The crank isn't rotated, it's exactly the same method (back and forth)as the official tool. The official tool could also cause damage by cracking the head but care in the procedure needs to be taken.

The official tool has been well proven over the years and also allows mechs at Kwak to follow an official procedure which gives a warranty on work carried out.

I was just wondering if anyone here had used this alternative method?
It would seem not.

[Skid Mark]

There is a second tool it is ‘W’ shaped and it usually comes with a small lever. I have both but only use the one pictured above. But the lever is handy for removing shims. Not sure this info is much use but may be less expensive then the one above. But one session of setting shims and it’s paid for regardless of what you use.