Looking forward to the next installment.
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73 Resto - "Now this is not the end. It is not even...
Moderators: KeithZ1R, chrisu, paul doran, Taffus
Finger pulled out Pasc!
In last week's cliffhanger, we saw the rear shocks braced for a good seeing to, courtesy of my home-made jig.
So, I'm happy to say all went smoothly. The jig may look a little over-engineered, but it's 100% safe and that's top priority for me, particularly when you consider what damage a compressed spring could do if let loose accidentally!
The pics are self explanatory, but I forgot to photograph the removal of the spring pin. This needs to be drifted out before the piston rod can be unscrewed from the top eye plate. If you're dismantling an aftermarket shock these won't have pins.
Once the top eye plate is removed, all components can be removed. I will be sending the springs off for a re-chrome. The lower spring seats will also be re-plated BZP. Fortunately all other parts are good enough to be simply cleaned up and refitted.
The damper bodies will be soaked in non-acid rust remover (Frost), then polished. I'm keeping chemicals away from the piston seal, just to be on the safe side.
As today has been suspension day, I thought I should post a few pics of the fork sliders, just for reference. You'll see from the pics how cursory the polishing - or linnishing - was when new. Personally I love this finish - it's 'sateen' rather than high polish - and I'll be replicating it as best i can with a combination of polish followed by fibral mopping to get the 'scratching' back.
The pics also confirm that the legs were definitely lacquered ex works. If I were doing a concours poodle I'd do the same, but this is a rider so I'll skip the lacquer. Done that before - and regretted it!!
Next up, I get into spraying, using Frost's 'Extreme Chassis' paint. I road-tested this on a resto earlier this year and its high epoxy content gives an excellent and robust finish which I think I can get to look like the original paint. Well I'll give it a go anyhow!
In last week's cliffhanger, we saw the rear shocks braced for a good seeing to, courtesy of my home-made jig.
So, I'm happy to say all went smoothly. The jig may look a little over-engineered, but it's 100% safe and that's top priority for me, particularly when you consider what damage a compressed spring could do if let loose accidentally!
The pics are self explanatory, but I forgot to photograph the removal of the spring pin. This needs to be drifted out before the piston rod can be unscrewed from the top eye plate. If you're dismantling an aftermarket shock these won't have pins.
Once the top eye plate is removed, all components can be removed. I will be sending the springs off for a re-chrome. The lower spring seats will also be re-plated BZP. Fortunately all other parts are good enough to be simply cleaned up and refitted.
The damper bodies will be soaked in non-acid rust remover (Frost), then polished. I'm keeping chemicals away from the piston seal, just to be on the safe side.
As today has been suspension day, I thought I should post a few pics of the fork sliders, just for reference. You'll see from the pics how cursory the polishing - or linnishing - was when new. Personally I love this finish - it's 'sateen' rather than high polish - and I'll be replicating it as best i can with a combination of polish followed by fibral mopping to get the 'scratching' back.
The pics also confirm that the legs were definitely lacquered ex works. If I were doing a concours poodle I'd do the same, but this is a rider so I'll skip the lacquer. Done that before - and regretted it!!
Next up, I get into spraying, using Frost's 'Extreme Chassis' paint. I road-tested this on a resto earlier this year and its high epoxy content gives an excellent and robust finish which I think I can get to look like the original paint. Well I'll give it a go anyhow!
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toycollector10
- 100Club
- Posts: 238
- Joined: 10th Dec 2007
- Location: New Zealand
Nice work Chris. I will be following this thread with a lot of interest.
I'm getting to at the stage myself of stripping all engine mounting bolts, springs, nuts and washers etc to send them off to the platers. This information you have posted up is gold for me.
I don't recognise the 5 pieces you have in the bag to the left of the toolkit. Yellow zinc? Please advise.
I understand that passivation sort of weatherproofs the zinc. Why aren't you doing that?
Regards, TC
I'm getting to at the stage myself of stripping all engine mounting bolts, springs, nuts and washers etc to send them off to the platers. This information you have posted up is gold for me.
I don't recognise the 5 pieces you have in the bag to the left of the toolkit. Yellow zinc? Please advise.
I understand that passivation sort of weatherproofs the zinc. Why aren't you doing that?
Regards, TC
Hi TC
There is a handful of yellow passivate items I'm replating on the 73:
- 2 part Connector clamp, electric plate
- Oil drain plug (hollow type)
- Clip, caliper, floating brake pad retainer (I'm doing a spare - hence 5 pc in all)
The 'do not passivate' bag contains the rear footrest hanger brkts. These are to be black passivated but, since my plater doesn't do that particular finish, I'm taking them elsewhere after plating.
Basically everything needs to be passivated - as you say.
If you google a company called Caswell International, you'll find a good article written by VJMC guru Steve Cooper about electroplating.
There is a handful of yellow passivate items I'm replating on the 73:
- 2 part Connector clamp, electric plate
- Oil drain plug (hollow type)
- Clip, caliper, floating brake pad retainer (I'm doing a spare - hence 5 pc in all)
The 'do not passivate' bag contains the rear footrest hanger brkts. These are to be black passivated but, since my plater doesn't do that particular finish, I'm taking them elsewhere after plating.
Basically everything needs to be passivated - as you say.
If you google a company called Caswell International, you'll find a good article written by VJMC guru Steve Cooper about electroplating.
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tedsonthezed
- 100Club
- Posts: 345
- Joined: 21st Mar 2008
- Location: High Wycombe, Bucks
tedsonthezed wrote:Regarding the paint for the frame. Do you use gloss and flat it back, or satin and polish it up?
Hi Ted
Neither - is the short answer.
Having mucked around with the Frost Extreme Chassis system I've discovered that lack of preparation is the key to the right result ie spray the primer straight over a (clean) grit blasted steel surface, then go straight on with the gloss topcoat. Do not try to flat back between coats as this will yield 'too good' a surface and hence too high a gloss.
When the paint first goes on it looks horrendously glossy but, as it cures over the next 7-10 days, it pulls back to a nice 'orange peel' finish which calms the high gloss down.
that's the theory anyhow! You'd be welcome to see work in progress, but I'm under orders to celebrate something called "Christmas" with the family so not much will happen in the near future.
Hi,
great pic's nice to see things going so well, I have 10257 close eh!! did you get the frame done by John at Lugershall?, just going to clean mine up for now see how she go's get a feel for the bike and decide later how far to go with it I would like to keep it as original as possible the worst thing is sun bleaching of the paintwork our bikes must of been put together on the same day!!
.
All the best John
great pic's nice to see things going so well, I have 10257 close eh!! did you get the frame done by John at Lugershall?, just going to clean mine up for now see how she go's get a feel for the bike and decide later how far to go with it I would like to keep it as original as possible the worst thing is sun bleaching of the paintwork our bikes must of been put together on the same day!!
.
All the best John
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paul doran
- Area Rep.
- Posts: 9233
- Joined: 24th Sep 2004
- Location: near Dublin Ireland
Hi Johno
sorry I didn't reply sooner - didn't notice your post!
Amazing you're Zed's so close - in both senses. I'm due to update on progress soon so more pics on the way.
I'll be hooking up with the Bucks Beds Herts crew again next season - that's what all this madness is about after all - so hope to meet up with you on a run-out!
Cheers - Chris
sorry I didn't reply sooner - didn't notice your post!
Amazing you're Zed's so close - in both senses. I'm due to update on progress soon so more pics on the way.
I'll be hooking up with the Bucks Beds Herts crew again next season - that's what all this madness is about after all - so hope to meet up with you on a run-out!
Cheers - Chris
This installment is subtitled - 'next time I'll give the lot to Doug Cox'...
Having booted out our christmas guests I settled in to setting up a temporary spray booth in the shed then set about painting around 40 items with Frost's Extreme chassis Paint system which comprises a black primer and either gloss or satin top coat. Each part had 2 primer coats, 48 hours curing time, then a flat back with 400 grade wet and dry used wet, then 2 top coats.
Al in all, it took bleedin' ages but I think it's turned out OK. Eastwood, who make the paints, specify a spraying temperature of no less than 65 degrees. Fat chance! Round my way it's been in the minuses since November so the job involved whipping the parts outside, quick spray, then dash'em back indoors. The spray booth was set up for the frame which couldn't be moved.
Be warned that these paints contain some seriously nasty stuff so I suited up and bought a good respirator, even when spraying outside.
Have to say, spraying the frame was a PIG and filthy with it - next time I'll get it done by Doug!
Here's a few snaps anyhow:
One little tip which I pass on with the express disclaimer 'DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME KIDS' is to GENTLY WARM the aerosols prior to spraying. It helps achieve a good finish 'out of the tin'. Also blow the nozzle through frequently with aerosol spray prep. Here's my rig:
Now for a few pics of the finished items. This is the stage where you need to be patient. All the parts need to cure properly before being handled. I'm going to leave them alone for at least 2 weeks - probably more.
One last experiment I thought I'd try would be to use one of the 'plate in a can' silver finishes. this is a highly reflective coating and I thought it might be good for the underside of the rear mudguard, which is not being re-plated.
Trick with all such finishes is to lacquer them once they're cured. This should afford some protection, though I don't expect the finish to last forever. But I reckon it should look quite presentable, and nicer than whats there currently - ie rust.
Because this finish is highly reflective I needed to prep the surface thoroughly to achieve a smooth finish. that meant grinding away all rust pitting with various sanding discs, then fibral mopping to provide a final smooth uniform surface.
Lastly, clean at least 3 times with cellulose thinners. The primer used is Eastwood self etching which will provide a good key to the metal.
Once again, a LOT of prep time, but it's looking good so far!
All in all, I'll be glad to get back to work on Monday and put me feet up
Having booted out our christmas guests I settled in to setting up a temporary spray booth in the shed then set about painting around 40 items with Frost's Extreme chassis Paint system which comprises a black primer and either gloss or satin top coat. Each part had 2 primer coats, 48 hours curing time, then a flat back with 400 grade wet and dry used wet, then 2 top coats.
Al in all, it took bleedin' ages but I think it's turned out OK. Eastwood, who make the paints, specify a spraying temperature of no less than 65 degrees. Fat chance! Round my way it's been in the minuses since November so the job involved whipping the parts outside, quick spray, then dash'em back indoors. The spray booth was set up for the frame which couldn't be moved.
Be warned that these paints contain some seriously nasty stuff so I suited up and bought a good respirator, even when spraying outside.
Have to say, spraying the frame was a PIG and filthy with it - next time I'll get it done by Doug!
Here's a few snaps anyhow:
One little tip which I pass on with the express disclaimer 'DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME KIDS' is to GENTLY WARM the aerosols prior to spraying. It helps achieve a good finish 'out of the tin'. Also blow the nozzle through frequently with aerosol spray prep. Here's my rig:
Now for a few pics of the finished items. This is the stage where you need to be patient. All the parts need to cure properly before being handled. I'm going to leave them alone for at least 2 weeks - probably more.
One last experiment I thought I'd try would be to use one of the 'plate in a can' silver finishes. this is a highly reflective coating and I thought it might be good for the underside of the rear mudguard, which is not being re-plated.
Trick with all such finishes is to lacquer them once they're cured. This should afford some protection, though I don't expect the finish to last forever. But I reckon it should look quite presentable, and nicer than whats there currently - ie rust.
Because this finish is highly reflective I needed to prep the surface thoroughly to achieve a smooth finish. that meant grinding away all rust pitting with various sanding discs, then fibral mopping to provide a final smooth uniform surface.
Lastly, clean at least 3 times with cellulose thinners. The primer used is Eastwood self etching which will provide a good key to the metal.
Once again, a LOT of prep time, but it's looking good so far!
All in all, I'll be glad to get back to work on Monday and put me feet up
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