Seriously Mark, I reckon you need to get Mick to come & re-point that wall for you.
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Pigfords OLD effort......now JULES NEW PROJECT!!!!!
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- Ginger Bear
- Hardcore

- Posts: 5512
- Joined: 16th Dec 2008
- Location: In the Dark.
- Contact:
GB, the wall was held up by ivy until the other weekend when Mrs P made me dig it all out
Have made a start with degreeing in the cams.......
Luckily I alreadt had a small dial gauge & made a temp set up for fixing so it can read the bucket movement. Used a 'dead stop' to check TDC & set me timing wheel. Its all fairly simple in reality.......
Most cam timing is set with the valve slightly open.... usually 0.04" or there abouts. This ensures an accurate reading, coz if you go for "just open" due to the ramping on the cam, this is not very easy to do.
So you measure the degrees on the timing mark when the valve has just opened (0.04" on the dial gauge). Then you turn the engine (clckwise) until its just off closed (0.04") & note the degrees.
Now toy add the two figures together + 180 = duration. This is usually a figure quoted by the manufacturer & is not the FULL duration, coz the little bit at the start & finish which is the 0.04" is not included
I had 34 BTDC opening & 76 ABDC closing..... Add these together + 180 = 290. Now divide by 2 = subtract the opening value, 34 = 111 degs.
My target is 108 deg, so its 3 degs out
I've only cheked the inlet so far, but once I've checked the ex & rechecked the clearances, I can reset the lobe accurately 
Have made a start with degreeing in the cams.......
Luckily I alreadt had a small dial gauge & made a temp set up for fixing so it can read the bucket movement. Used a 'dead stop' to check TDC & set me timing wheel. Its all fairly simple in reality.......
Most cam timing is set with the valve slightly open.... usually 0.04" or there abouts. This ensures an accurate reading, coz if you go for "just open" due to the ramping on the cam, this is not very easy to do.
So you measure the degrees on the timing mark when the valve has just opened (0.04" on the dial gauge). Then you turn the engine (clckwise) until its just off closed (0.04") & note the degrees.
Now toy add the two figures together + 180 = duration. This is usually a figure quoted by the manufacturer & is not the FULL duration, coz the little bit at the start & finish which is the 0.04" is not included
I had 34 BTDC opening & 76 ABDC closing..... Add these together + 180 = 290. Now divide by 2 = subtract the opening value, 34 = 111 degs.
My target is 108 deg, so its 3 degs out
And on the 7th day... Zeds were created!
- mick znone
- Hardcore

- Posts: 4473
- Joined: 13th Jun 2008
- Location: Cornwall
Bears right, i could do that wall, bit of a lime mix i think, but i'd rather have the skills Pigfords got with bikes, being honest.
PS,is that the plank Pasc was on about, behind the bike.
PS,is that the plank Pasc was on about, behind the bike.
I DONT CARE, IN OR OUT BUT IM ENJOYING THE DEBATE......................ARMSTRONG MT500. a pushbike, waves.....addict, no offence
I don't know Mick, you give with one hand, and take away with the other
Those 'planks' are a temporary fix to keep the mad staffie from digging more of the garden up
The little tyke was helping me dig the garden last weekend (chuffin' hilarious at the time) with mud flying in all directions........
Trouble is, she's rather taken to this gardening lark now...
Those 'planks' are a temporary fix to keep the mad staffie from digging more of the garden up
The little tyke was helping me dig the garden last weekend (chuffin' hilarious at the time) with mud flying in all directions........
Trouble is, she's rather taken to this gardening lark now...
And on the 7th day... Zeds were created!
Thanx Rich, that did occur to me, but coz I set it up on the inlet..... It was more of a first time (lose me cherry) trial
Actually, it shouldn't matter which are set first...... The inlet being the most crutial for effect of engine performance. Coz the cam is relative to TDC
The cams are timed on adjustable sprox, so as long as each is calibrated to TDC, thats OK
I shall redo from scratch next time.... But it was rather windy with the garage door up...... & I needed the daylight
May get chance to have a proper go next weekend
Actually, it shouldn't matter which are set first...... The inlet being the most crutial for effect of engine performance. Coz the cam is relative to TDC
I shall redo from scratch next time.... But it was rather windy with the garage door up...... & I needed the daylight
May get chance to have a proper go next weekend
And on the 7th day... Zeds were created!
- RALPHARAMA
- Area Rep.

- Posts: 2752
- Joined: 19th May 2007
- Location: Pensford, Somerset
- Contact:
Going back to your compression test. I have been bitten in the arse recently by trusting compression testing.
I should have known better after doing a test on the Old Gurl which suggested that everything in the garden was lovely, when in reality the the barrels had been bored way over size and the pistons weren't touching the sides and she was burning more oil than a 2 stroke with a badly set up oil pump
I had a punter bring me a Guzzi Targa 750 he had ill-advisedly bought through flea bay. It gave 150PSI on both pots so I made the assumption all was well. The reality is that the bore on the RHS is as sloppy as a fifty year old whore. Worse still they're Nicosil coated barrels so a re-bore isn't an option. It came to light when I put the Vacuum Mate on it and discover that the left had a massive average vacuum at the top of the highest range and the right had to read on the lowest scale. Obviously I checked absolutely everything else it could have been.
The moral of this story is to get a Leak Down Tester ... should be delivered today
I should have known better after doing a test on the Old Gurl which suggested that everything in the garden was lovely, when in reality the the barrels had been bored way over size and the pistons weren't touching the sides and she was burning more oil than a 2 stroke with a badly set up oil pump
I had a punter bring me a Guzzi Targa 750 he had ill-advisedly bought through flea bay. It gave 150PSI on both pots so I made the assumption all was well. The reality is that the bore on the RHS is as sloppy as a fifty year old whore. Worse still they're Nicosil coated barrels so a re-bore isn't an option. It came to light when I put the Vacuum Mate on it and discover that the left had a massive average vacuum at the top of the highest range and the right had to read on the lowest scale. Obviously I checked absolutely everything else it could have been.
The moral of this story is to get a Leak Down Tester ... should be delivered today
Ralph Ferrand
Z1000A1 (1977), Godier Genoud Z1300A5 (1983), Z900A4 Stock (1976), Z900A4 Special (project), GPZ1100 Unitrak (1983), ZRX1200R (2004) DT175MX (1981).
http://www.bikerstoolbox.co.uk
Don't be caught out http://www.dhlparcels.info/
Z1000A1 (1977), Godier Genoud Z1300A5 (1983), Z900A4 Stock (1976), Z900A4 Special (project), GPZ1100 Unitrak (1983), ZRX1200R (2004) DT175MX (1981).
http://www.bikerstoolbox.co.uk
Don't be caught out http://www.dhlparcels.info/
- Ginger Bear
- Hardcore

- Posts: 5512
- Joined: 16th Dec 2008
- Location: In the Dark.
- Contact:
- Ginger Bear
- Hardcore

- Posts: 5512
- Joined: 16th Dec 2008
- Location: In the Dark.
- Contact:
UPDATE time........
Had a couple of spare hours... so been tinkering with the Lawson.....
Got me stuff together & degreed the cams in now....
The exhaust was 113....
and the inlet was 131
a tooth out
Amazing it ran so nicely... even if a bit reluctant to start up
Anyhow, cams now both set to 108 degrees..... Cam cover back on... just need to check carbs (again - can't remember what they are set at) and a new alternator gasket
Will have anuvver go hopefully next weekend..... This must have been the cause of the rev's hanging up.....
Had a couple of spare hours... so been tinkering with the Lawson.....
Got me stuff together & degreed the cams in now....
The exhaust was 113....
Amazing it ran so nicely... even if a bit reluctant to start up
Anyhow, cams now both set to 108 degrees..... Cam cover back on... just need to check carbs (again - can't remember what they are set at) and a new alternator gasket
Will have anuvver go hopefully next weekend..... This must have been the cause of the rev's hanging up.....
And on the 7th day... Zeds were created!
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