Desperately need help

[JWO261N]

Guys,
I’ve had the carbs out, cleaned them (ultrasonic) , fitted decent carb refurb kits to all and put it all back together.
The bike still won’t idle, won’t throttle up.
I need to find someone who can fix this bike, I’m happy to take it anywhere and expect to be billed.
There’s no point in having the bike if I can’t fix and ride it.
Any recommendations chaps?
Really at my wits end now.
Even tempted to sell it for best offer over £8k

[warren3200gt]

Not sure if there's anyone closer but I'm by brands hatch and if you can trailor it I'd be happy to have a look for you.

[kev edwards]

Are we to assume it starts and runs, a video of it running may help.

[Garry.L]

Sounds like Pilot Circuits are still blocked/restricted if it won't idle or rev off idle.

[JWO261N]

Sounds like Pilot Circuits are still blocked/restricted if it won't idle or rev off idle.

I get a tad confused here as the Haynes manual doesn’t show the carb I have on the bike.

There are brass screws on the side of each carb which I renewed from the carb kit. I wound them all the way in, then backed them out by 1.5 turns (as a starting point).

When I had the carbs apart there is jet in the bottom front of each carb. There wasn’t a replacement for them in the kit. I’ve just screwed them back in. Any idea what they are?

[warren3200gt]

Correctors. Used to help off idle flat spots when pods/4into1 fitted.
What air filters and exhaust do you have fitted.

[zed1015]

When I had the carbs apart there is jet in the bottom front of each carb. There wasn’t a replacement for them in the kit. I’ve just screwed them back in. Any idea what they are?

If the jets are the same as the ones highlighted in the pic they are air correctors for running pods or open carbs.
If you have the airbox fitted they must be removed otherwise they will cause over fuelling and bogging.
I also recommend that unless damaged you should re-fit any original Mikuni brass components as most aftermarket kits ( except Keyster) are poor quality and cause more problems than they solve.
The only wear parts that should be replaced are 'O' rings , gaskets and the float valves.

[kev edwards]

Would the screws in the white circles be the ones you have screwed right in, if so then you then have stopped fuel supply at low end of running, these should be around 1 and 1/4 turns out, the ones on the sides which are your air screws around 1 and 1/8 turns out, it does sound like you have fuel starvation, the Haynes manuals are far from the best to use, a factory manual is by far the best, not cheap but worth every penny.

[JWO261N]

When I had the carbs apart there is jet in the bottom front of each carb. There wasn’t a replacement for them in the kit. I’ve just screwed them back in. Any idea what they are?

If the jets are the same as the ones highlighted in the pic they are air correctors for running pods or open carbs.
If you have the airbox fitted they must be removed otherwise they will cause over fuelling.
I also recommend that unless damaged you should re-fit any original Mikuni brass components as most aftermarket kits ( except Keyster) are poor quality and cause more problems than they solve.
The only wear parts that should be replaced are 'O' rings , gaskets and the float valves.

PICT0087.JPG

I don’t have those in my carbs, but I have the stock air box so that’s ok I guess (phew).
In your picture at the bottom of the carb go forward from the overflow outlet and there’s another jet?

I used 4 keyster refurb kits btw

Interestingly, you have 2 fuel feeds?
My set has just one fuel feed in middle, but my tap only has one outlet so ....

[JWO261N]

Would the screws in the white circles be the ones you have screwed right in, if so then you then have stopped fuel supply at low end of running, these should be around 1 and 1/4 turns out, the ones on the sides which are your air screws around 1 and 1/8 turns out, it does sound like you have fuel starvation, the Haynes manuals are far from the best to use, a factory manual is by far the best, not cheap but worth every penny.s-l1600 (1)_LI.jpg

Yep, those ore the ones I’ve been wondering about.

That looks like job #1 tomorrow then

I’ll start looking for the factory manual, if I keep this bike I think I’ll need it ....

[zed1015]

In your picture at the bottom of the carb go forward from the overflow outlet and there’s another jet?

..

Depending on model they have either one or two fuel tees.
A pic of your carbs would be better but they wouldn't happen to look like these from the front would they ?

And have this square casting on the side ?

[kev edwards]

Turn them out 1 an 1/4 turns and I bet she plays ball, then it will be fine tuning needed, and Rob zed1015 knows tons on this . Keep us posted.

[pertonpc]

Hi There
You can have a digital copy of the Owners manual for the Z1 off my web site here -

http://www.zedrider.co.uk/service--owners-manuals.html

It will explain the functioning of the carbs and may help you to understand where the issue lies.

[JWO261N]

Hi There
You can have a digital copy of the Owners manual for the Z1 off my web site here -

http://www.zedrider.co.uk/service--owners-manuals.html

It will explain the functioning of the carbs and may help you to understand where the issue lies.

What a star!
Thank you so much

[Philippe]

Hi JWO261N

I think it would be good to show us a picture of your carbs, just to determine if you have 26 mm carbs or 28 mm carbs.
On a Z900A4 the standard 26 mm carbs were used but, if I'm correct, those have two T pieces to provide the fuel, one between carbs 1 and 2 and another T piece between carbs 3 and 4. The fuel tap has allso two pipes.
The 28 mm carbs were used on the Z1000 ( Z1R, Z1000MK2 or Z1000ST) Those carbs have 1 T piece between carbs 2 and 3 and a straight tube between carbs 1 and 2 and another straight tube between carbs 3 and 4.
Just measure the opening of a carb on the front, where it is attached to the rubber intake pieces between the carbs and the cylinder head. We can continue from there.
If we can determine what carbs you have we might help you to solve your problem.

One more thing: when you cleaned the carbs in the ultra sonic bath, did you blew out ALL the small openings with compressed air?
It's not because the carbs are clean on the outside that they're clean on the inside...
GrtZ
Philippe