Double the troubleZZ. AMA style Racecrafters Z1000 (completed) and Moriwaki Z1R Turbo.

[zed1015]

And that's number two rolling

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[Swirl]

You make it look so easy as usual, nice work

[Mr Puffin]

Great Job once again Zed

[zed1015]

Had another session in the workshop and fashioned some adjustable lock stops which were welded to both bikes.

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Then on to tackling the mudguard for the 'B' which happens to be the surplus XJR one I was going to use for the alloy café a few years ago before deciding that a hand beaten aluminium one was the way to go.

The first job is to trim the sides as these will foul the alloy stanctions as the forks compress

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The ZX7R forks are the same mudguard mounting as the ZX9's I have on the Drouin and so is the modified XJR guard so I just need to replicate the mudguard and the mounts.

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Black mount from the Drouin being copied

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After bending to the correct shape and blasting I fit some rivnuts

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Which slot in to the mounting grommets of the now modified mudguard

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And on it goes.
Rounded cuts in the guard and the bracket are to allow the alloy fork leg to clear.
Bracket will be painted black along with the fork lowers and will blend in against the black tyre.

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Out in the sun and bolted on with some alloy cup washers and counter sunk bolts.

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[zed1015]

For the Z1R I'd been looking for a ZRX1100 mudguard but genuine ones are thin on the ground and go for daft money so in desperation I took a punt and bought a £17.99 Chinese copy of a very similar looking ZRX400 one from Ebay that's advertised as ABS plastic.
3 days later this turned up from a warehouse in Birmingham .
For the price I was a bit dubious but it's good quality, the same fitment as the 1100 and no amount of twisting it nearly double could break it so that's a result.

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I made up some suitably contoured stainless mounts which pick up the FJR fork legs rear guard mounts and incorporated some threaded mounting boss's

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Which slot in rubber grommets I fitted to the guard.

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And then a test fit to make sure it sits where it should

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And make up another set of alloy mounting washers to tidy it up.

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Front view shows quite a distance between the guard and the front fork leg mount so i'm leaving that for now until I come up with a better looking solution to the obvious 'Z' shaped bracket I really want to avoid

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[zed1015]

Had a little session with hacksaw and welding torch.
With the 6 inch rim and a 190 or 200 section tyre the front sprocket on the Z1R is going to need around 7/8ths (21mm) offset.
This will result in the chain arguing with the frame so a little adjustment around the swingarm pivot area is needed..
After a bit of measuring the frame was sectioned width wise by around 10mm

Then plated back up

And the weld beads blended in

Plenty of clearance up and down and side to side now

[zed1015]

After the chain clearance mods I started on some of the frame bracing .
In all the excitement I forgot to take progress pics but this is about 80% of what the finished frame is getting..

Down tube "Z" bracing

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Side corner bracing

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Under seat cross brace

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And the beginnings of the top tube mods

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Hopefully that should help to keep it running straight.

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Seat tail/rear light mount has also been re-angled and moved forward 70mm

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Then threw in the engine cases with the turbo mocked up somewhere in the correct position.

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There's a bit more frame loop, headstock and downtube bracing to go in but that has to wait until I've got the exhaust run sorted where i want it

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[ADRIAN H]

if only I could weld. Superb work as always. Keep the pictures coming.

[deka]

stunning work

[KWACKERZ1]

I think I actually Hate you Rob,

You make it look dead easy.

[Swirl]

Superb

[Paul Whitehouse]

Fantastic work as always Rob....keep them photos comin'

[zed1015]

A small but important job done today.
B frame didn't have any seat hinges

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So cobbled up this jig on a mates Z1000 to pick up the correct positions and transfer them over.

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Was going to buy a set of these repair hinges to make things easier thinking they'd be in the region of £15 to £20 or something but after seeing the jaw dropping price of £213 .

I decided to make my own for nowt

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Then slot them in the jig and 20 mins later their on.

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Have got a couple of 2-4 seats with the usual twisted hinges and split bases etc that need fettling so I can now straighten them up on this and then decide which one i'm gonna use.

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[zed1015]

Had both Giuliari / 2-4 seat bases on the frame, tweaked the hinges straight and fully welded up all the seams .
This frame also came with no rear loop but fortunately I had one on the damaged mock up frame with the tail mounts still on so removed that with a short section of the main frame still attached.

Then squared up the frame tubes and slipped in some joining sleeves.

Loop reinstated and to the original length ready for welding.

Once that was done the seat and tail was slotted on but it just doesn't sit quite right.
The backend always looks slightly wrong in my eyes when using 17" wheels.

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So took the worst base and did some minor tweaking in the length department which after a few sessions of eyeballing ended up shorter by 70mm .

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The tail mount got some similar shortenting adjustment and now just some minor jiggling to the tail piece needed to lift it in line with the seat but I think the proportions look much better.

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The Racecrafters machines had a very steep tail angle but as i'm obviously not building a replica and think they went a bit too far with it i'll settle for somewhere in between that gives a nod to the style.

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[zed1015]

Decided on the final angle of the tail piece so permanently welded the rear loop in position today which has also been moved forward by around 60mm and fettled the seat hump to get an even gap all the way round

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Then had a sit in the sun with a cuppa studying the lines and deciding on the next move

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When a man with a van turned up with this.
I'd asked Dave at Exhaust Craft if he could do another set of stainless downpipes that sit closer to the engine and sump like he had done for the Drouin and only a week later they are on my doorstep.

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Turned spigots on the headers are a snug fit in the billet clamps which were included.
A much better set up than the usual fiddly split collars.

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Quickly slotted them on for a test fit

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Spot on. Plenty of ground clearance and it just clears the sump fins when that's back on.

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Asked Dave to leave plenty of "tail" length on the pipes heading back so I can cut them to my own specs.

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Just need to find or make a suitable end can then connect it together with my own design merge collector and link pipe.

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