Double the troubleZZ. AMA style Racecrafters Z1000 (completed) and Moriwaki Z1R Turbo.

[zed1015]

Another job i can make a start on is the turbo's exhaust.
I want the pipe to take the shortest route to reduce lag as much as possible so i've dropped the FJR forks in the yokes by the maximum amount of their 137mm fork travel which shows me how much room above and behind the mudguard i have to work with.
I have no idea if there's enough clearance for what i want and i won't find out until i actually start building it

First job was to order in some 304 stainless 38mm 180 degree bends, 2 inch round bar and 10mm flat plate for the raw material.

The 10mm plate for the exhaust clamps was cut into four, bored out on the lathe for the spigots and then became the first proper job for the restored Harrison mill to machine the angles on them

The 2 inch solid bar was divided up the same and treated to a day in the lathe until i had the spigots and basic flanges..

Then pretty up the flanges with some rounded corners and spot face the surfaces truly flat for the mounting nuts and washers.

Each spigot was individually matched to it's gasket recess in the head for snug fit and numbered along with the flanges..
I did the same on the ally cafe and no gaskets were needed so i hope this turns out the same..

Pipes are tight slip fit in the spigots which will be welded on once completed .
Now to see if i can make this a 4-1 that meets a link pipe v band connector somewhere near where the horn used to live

[zed1015]

Slotted the head back on today and shortened pipes 2 and 3 .
Took off just enough to clear the mudguard on full bump and 5mm extra in case i'm forced to fit some exhaust gaskets.

Turned out better than expected, not as tight for space as first appeared and a decent leg length of 100mm before the bend out of the head and these two can go straight to a collector in one sweep .
Was prepared to have to remove the sheet steel gusset which i'd already opened up but it looks like i've got away with it.

Plenty of room to snake 1 and 4 around the down tubes and up behind the midpipes and i think i've got half a chance of getting them close to equal length with the middle ones.

Going to leave that there for now until the 45mm tube arrives for the link pipe so turned my attention to the turbine flange at the other end of the system.
Another piece of 5mm stainless plate bored and shaped with the same method as the exhaust can mount, then one half of a v band connecter pressed in half way and welded on around the inside which was machined smooth to blend in with the bore and faced off on the back for the gasket..

These will make it a much quicker job to remove the link pipe section for access to the cam cover etc.

[zed1015]

A forced change of plan with the outer pipes.
Too many tight turns running them round the frame and up behind the inners and it would have been near impossible getting at the middle upper exhaust studs so went the straight forward route and ran them out and up in front of the inners.
This has worked out better as i have only one welded joint, more room to position the collector and the straighter run is the same length as snaking them round the frame .

The collector will sit a little higher and further out so the original tin frame gusset had to go entirely which was on the cards anyway to be replaced by some bracing tubes and this will allow a better flow of air over the motor.

Pipe ends all cut level

Ready for the merge collector.

[Z1streetfighter71]

Next level workmanship mate!

[r3sc]

It’s going to be a stunning looking MONSTER!!

Keep the photos coming!

[zed1015]

Collector welded on and headers complete apart from some blending of the welds and polishing

There's now plenty of room to get at the flange nuts

And the V band clamp ended up in the perfect spot with just enough clearance between the frame tubes to slip the retaining strap off.

Cam cover easily clears the collector when lifted (when the strap and other half of the clamp is out of the way)

Just need to knock up some pipework to fill in the gap, squeeze in a wastgate and make sure it clears everything under the tank along the way

[zed1015]

Getting prepared for a bit of Blue Peter jiggery pokery to plan out the link pipe run.
Dry built the bare motor with some slighty thicker head and base gaskets etc and Jigged up the turbo square to the frame centerline and vertical to the engine with enough clearance fore and aft to allow for exhaust gaskets if needed.

Bought a sheet of metal composite manifold gasket and permanently bolted on the flange adaptor as there'll be no leeway for adjustment once the weldings done.

Hopefully got enough arc in this 180 to produce all the bends i need and knocked up a marking guide so all the cuts are true to the center line of the bend .
Sacrificial carboard templates will be used to get somewhere close with the angles and cuts needed and reduce the risk of disaster before getting serious with the hacksaw

[zed1015]

All those years of wasted youth watching John Noakes and Valerie Singleton in the 70's paid off and a few hours later it turns out the 180 bend just had to be cut into three equal 60 degree sections to get very close to where i need to be..

But it took another two days of filing, tweaking, staring and tea drinking to get the joints square and the pipe clearing everything along the way

And a bit of fine adjustment in between glueing each joint as the stainless tends to shift when welded.

Quite happy with the clearance i managed to get and this is the closest it comes to the frame which should be more than adequate when the pipe is insulated.

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Nearly done. Just need to bring the wastegate pipe out from the last bend before the turbo

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[r3sc]

That’s looking really good Rob, a very neat job.

Are you going to have to take any measures to keep it cool underneath the tank? Where will the coils live?

Cheers

Pete.

[zed1015]

I'm sort of making this up as i go along if you haven't guessed but the distributor igniton uses a single coil and there's only one position under the tank it will go if i decide it's going to be ok there otherwise it'll have to go further back under the seat.

The exhaust and fuel tank situation is a big concern so going to do everything i can think of to contain the heat.

The entire underside of the tank is going to be lined with some adhesive reflective insulation that's used in engine bays https://www.t7design.co.uk/adhesive-alu ... 6f.html?ut and the link pipe will be wrapped with heat blanket something like this https://www.demon-tweeks.com/cool-it-th ... M11650&ist both of which are supposed to block more than 90% of the radiant heat.
There's also sleeving for wires and cable made from the same stuff if needed https://www.t7design.co.uk/lava-rock-fi ... 8-630.html .
Then in between for belt and braces i'm going to mount an aluminium heat shield that bolts to the original coil mounts which in combination with the other measures i hope should be more than enough to prevent any unwanted spontaneous combustion and allow me to use that area for the coil..

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[r3sc]

I think the measures you are taking should do the job admirably.

It would be quite easy to monitor the temperature under the tank during the commissioning stages to asses if the temperature is within acceptable limits for the coil etc but based on what you have proposed I think it will be good!

Keep up the posts, it’s good reading!

[r3sc]

If you polish the underside of the aluminium heat shield it will also help to deflect heat downwards and away from the tank,

[zed1015]

If you polish the underside of the aluminium heat shield it will also help to deflect heat downwards and away from the tank,

Yes! Either that or maybe stick a layer of the insulated mat underneath.

[zed1015]

32mm stainless u bend turned up this morning so made a start on the wastegate outlet

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Cut,bored and drilled a piece of 4mm stainless for the gates mounting flange

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And then took the plunge and cut into the freshly welded link pipe.

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Loose mock up.
Gate will sit tucked at the side of the plenum and behind the head.

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Shallow merge angle rather than the usual 90 degrees to the flow should speed up the pressure release time and reduce boost creep.

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[zed1015]

Welding done and another piece of the puzzle complete

Other half of the stainless u bend will make a shiney new gate outlet pipe which i may or may not tie into the main exhaust