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Z1000J Camcap bolts
Moderators: chrisu, paul doran, Taffus, KeithZ1R
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- 100Club
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Re: Z1000J Camcap bolts
Ordered up some helicoils with various lengths. The ones that were in were 8mm long and I'm thinking you can get something a little longer in which may help as well. Just noticed I cracked a bit of the webbing on number 2 cap as well.. Eek! Anyway reading some previous threads it seems that's likely not a huge problem so I think ok to continue Vs swapping. Hopefully!
Re: Z1000J Camcap bolts
I was initially looking at Timeserts, which due to their nature are significantly stronger than helicoils, but may cause an interference problem with the buckets in the same manner as Al has suggested if tapped to M8 as they're a larger diameter. I would seriously consider M7 bolts
Quite a few people have used M8 timeserts on here to repair J threads but i suspect that its only OK if they are set high up immediately under the counterbore for the dowels.
On that subject; 7mm bolts may not fit through the dowels!
Just noticed I cracked a bit of the webbing on number 2 cap as well.. Eek! Anyway reading some previous threads it seems that's likely not a huge problem so I think ok to continue Vs swapping
If it was caps 1 or 3 it would be an issue because the webbing there has another function but the webbing of 2 and 4 make no contribution to the security of the cams or integrity of the make up of the two piece bearing arrangement.
Does the crack extend from the webbing into the bolted on tower section?
AL
1981 J1
Re: Z1000J Camcap bolts
"Set the GRINDER on it"
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- Custard Cream
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Re: Z1000J Camcap bolts
I had inserts put in the ones of mine that I stripped, they had already been helicoiled, they were done by the ever helpful Chris at Grumpy 1260.
An expanding collection of parts pretending to be a Z1100R and a Yamaha FZ750
Re: Z1000J Camcap bolts
I think the J type heads seem to be a bit dodgier in the cam cap bolt region than the earlier ones. How much of that is to do with the erroneous torque setting in the manual and subsequent over enthusiastic fettling I don't know... 

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Re: Z1000J Camcap bolts
Al,
No no cracks on the actual cap, Jair on the side of the webbing. So hopefully all is ok.. Now just hoping the new helicoils will hold ok
Cheers
Lee
No no cracks on the actual cap, Jair on the side of the webbing. So hopefully all is ok.. Now just hoping the new helicoils will hold ok

Cheers
Lee
Re: Z1000J Camcap bolts
Photograph it well and in 1000 / 1500 miles when you go to check for tight clearances have a good look and compare.
Bloodied but not bowed! Looks like you may be OK after all.
Just by way of comparison here is another treatment of a similar situation.
http://www.kawasakimotorcycle.org/forum ... yself.html
And another
http://kzrider.com/forum/2-engine/49106 ... s-stripped
Next stop; chain jumping off exhaust cam sprocket, then,.. cant get cam cover down because chain too tight.
The fun knows no end.
AL
Bloodied but not bowed! Looks like you may be OK after all.
Just by way of comparison here is another treatment of a similar situation.
http://www.kawasakimotorcycle.org/forum ... yself.html
And another
http://kzrider.com/forum/2-engine/49106 ... s-stripped
Next stop; chain jumping off exhaust cam sprocket, then,.. cant get cam cover down because chain too tight.




AL
1981 J1
Re: Z1000J Camcap bolts
Photobucket is broken again! If youre making a frame for the camshafts / caps and have some spare material, one of these is handy. Quick to make too. Dimensions in the album http://s254.photobucket.com/user/zorded ... t=3&page=1

AL

AL
1981 J1
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- ZedHead
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Re: Z1000J Camcap bolts
There is such a thing as a "bigsert", it's a timesert with a slightly larger OD, specifically to repair damaged threads where there is not enough material fo a normal timesert.
N.B. a standard timesert uses the same tap as a helicail or recoil, but is a solid insert - I much prefer them.
N.B. a standard timesert uses the same tap as a helicail or recoil, but is a solid insert - I much prefer them.
Cheers,
Mark.
Mark.
Re: Z1000J Camcap bolts
Ive got exactly the same problem with my elr head im thinking of big serts but the od of the m6 insert is 8.4 mm not sure if there will be enough wall thickness left between insert and shell. Only other options i can think of are get some 8mm ht slugs made, or weld and tap if that is a possibility.
Motor biking, motor biking, going down the queens highway like a rasher streaky bacon!
Re: Z1000J Camcap bolts
"Set the GRINDER on it"
Re: Z1000J Camcap bolts
swampy wrote:Ive got exactly the same problem with my elr head im thinking of big serts but the od of the m6 insert is 8.4 mm not sure if there will be enough wall thickness left between insert and shell. Only other options i can think of are get some 8mm ht slugs made, or weld and tap if that is a possibility.
Another good option for a permanent fix is to fit studs.
M8 (or whatever you need in the head ) on one end and m6 on the other .
You have to watch the stud height once installed as anything much more than enough to get the nut and washer or nyloc on can cause the cam cover not to seat on its gasket.
Re: Z1000J Camcap bolts
Gus the prob with ezlok inserts is the o/d is 9.4mm and stands the a very good chance of breaking through the wall or pushing on the shells thereby distorting them.
Motor biking, motor biking, going down the queens highway like a rasher streaky bacon!
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Re: Z1000J Camcap bolts
zed1015 wrote:swampy wrote:Ive got exactly the same problem with my elr head im thinking of big serts but the od of the m6 insert is 8.4 mm not sure if there will be enough wall thickness left between insert and shell. Only other options i can think of are get some 8mm ht slugs made, or weld and tap if that is a possibility.
Another good option for a permanent fix is to fit studs.
M8 (or whatever you need in the head ) on one end and m6 on the other .
You have to watch the stud height once installed as anything much more than enough to get the nut and washer or nyloc on can cause the cam cover not to seat on its gasket.
I done this about 10 years ago, and the holes with the dowels i ground the tap slightly under 8mm to give a small shoulder for the dowels, i used very thin serated stainless washers and normal thickness nuts, this was not enough to allow the cover to go down properly so i took some material off of the inside of the cover above the nuts to allow for correct seating, the studs i made myself a few sets i gave away, if all 16 are done it's a bit of jiggle to get the cams in but not hard, the bike is still about, i also made up some 10mm inserts with the dowel as part of the insert for mr puffin on here and as far as i am aware his bike is still running with the dowels in it
Re: Z1000J Camcap bolts
kev edwards wrote:I done this about 10 years ago, and the holes with the dowels i ground the tap slightly under 8mm to give a small shoulder for the dowels, i used very thin serated stainless washers and normal thickness nuts, this was not enough to allow the cover to go down properly so i took some material off of the inside of the cover above the nuts to allow for correct seating, the studs i made myself a few sets i gave away, if all 16 are done it's a bit of jiggle to get the cams in but not hard, the bike is still about, i also made up some 10mm inserts with the dowel as part of the insert for mr puffin on here and as far as i am aware his bike is still running with the dowels in it
Yeah! done a few myself.
Spot faced the cover above the nuts for clearance.
There's a bit of variation with the inside heights of the covers and some don't need any alteration and some will even hit the stock bolt heads or caps with no gasket fitted.
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